Tag Archives: home buying

Blind Trust In Email Could Cost You Thousands- Even Your Home!

May 4, 2017

If you are buying or selling a home, NEVER forget to CALL THE CLOSING ATTORNEY (OR GO IN PERSONALLY) TO GET WIRE INSTRUCTIONS. DO NOT RELY ON AN EMAIL FROM ANYONE (The Attorney, your Realtor, your lender). I have shared this before, and it is scary stuff. This is becoming more prevalent, and it even happened to one Charlotte couple recently. Please share with anyone thinking about buying or selling a home! This IS happening, folks!

Saussy Burbank house

Provided as an excerpt from an article written by KrebsOnSecurity on April 17, 2017

Blind Trust in Email Could Cost You Your Home

The process of buying or selling a home can be extremely stressful and complex, but imagine the stress that would boil up if — at settlement — your money was wired to scammers in another country instead of to the settlement firm or escrow company. Here’s the story about a phishing email that cost a couple their home and left them scrambling for months to recover hundreds of thousands in cash that went missing.

It was late November 2016, and Jon and Dorothy Little were all set to close on a $200,000 home in Hendersonville, North Carolina. Just prior to the closing date on Dec. 2 their realtor sent an email to the Little’s and to the law firm handling the closing, asking the settlement firm for instructions on wiring the money to an escrow account.

The fraudulent wire instructions apparently sent by the hackers via the settlement law firm.

An attorney with the closing firm responded with wiring instructions as requested, attaching a document that had the law firm’s logo and some bank account information that was represented as the seller’s account number. The Little’s realtor sent the wire on Thursday morning, the day before settlement.

“We went to closing at 1 p.m. on Friday, and after we signed all the papers, we asked the lawyers if we were going to get back the extra money we had sent them, because they hadn’t be able to give us an exact amount in the wiring instructions. At that point they told us they had never gotten the money.”

After some disagreement, both legitimate parties to the transaction agreed that someone’s email had been hacked by the fraudsters, and was used to divert the wired funds to an account the criminals controlled. The hackers had forged a copy of the law firm’s letterhead, and beneath it placed their own Bank of America account information (see screen shot above).

The owner of the Bank of America account appears to have been a willing or unwitting accomplice — also know as a “money mule” — recruited through work-at-home job schemes to receive and forward funds stolen from hacked business accounts. In this case, the money mule wired all but 10 percent of the money (a typical money mule commission) to an account at TD Bank.

Fortunately for the Littles, the FBI succeeded in having the resulting $180,000 wire transfer frozen once it hit the TD Bank account. However, efforts to recover the stolen funds were stymied immediately when the Littles’ credit union refused to give Bank of America a so-called “hold harmless” agreement that the bigger bank wanted as a legal guarantee before agreeing to help.

Charisse Castagnoli, an adjunct professor of law at the John Marshall Law School, said banks have a fiduciary duty to their customers to honor their requests in good faith, and as such they tend to be very nervous legally about colluding with another bank to reverse payment instructions by one of their own customers. The “hold harmless” agreement is usually sought by the bank which received a fraudulent wire transfer, Castagnoli said, and it requires the responding bank to assume any and all liability for costs that the requesting bank may later incur should the owner of account which received the fraudulent wire decide to dispute the payment reversal.

“When it comes to wire fraud cases the banks have to move very quickly because once the wires make it outside the U.S. to foreign banks, the money is usually as good as gone,” Castagnoli said. “The receiver or transferee usually insists on a hold harmless agreement because they’re moving the money on behalf of their own account holder, kind of going against their own client which is a big ‘no-no’ when you’re a fiduciary.”

But in this case, the credit union in which the Littles had invested virtually all of their money for more than 40 years decided it could not in good faith provide that hold harmless agreement, because doing so would stipulate that the credit union affirms the victim (the Littles) hadn’t willingly and knowing initiated the wire, when in fact they had.

“I talked to the wire dept multiple times,” Mr. Little said of the folks at his financial institution, Atlanta, Ga.-based Delta Community Credit Union (DCCU). “They finally put me through to the vice president of loss prevention at the credit union. I’m not sure they even believed all that was going on. They finally came back and told me they couldn’t do it. Their rules would not allow them to send a hold harmless letter because I had asked them to do something and they had done it. They had a big meeting last week with apparently the CEO of the credit union and several other people. Then they called me on Monday again and told me they would not could not do it.”

The Littles had to cancel the contract on the house they were prepared to occupy in December. Most of their cash was tied up in this account that the banks were haggling over, and so they opted to get a heavily mortgaged small townhome instead, with the intention of paying off the mortgage when their stolen funds are returned.

“We canceled the contract on the house because the sellers really needed to sell it,” Jon Little said.

The DCCU has yet to respond to my requests for comment. But less than a day after KrebsOnSecurity reached out to the credit union for comment about the Littles’ story, the bank informed the Littles that the other bank would soon have its hold harmless letter — freeing up their $180,000 after more than four months in legal limbo.

The Littles’ story has a fairly happy ending, however most of the other few dozens stories previously featured on this blog about wayward mortgage, escrow and payroll payments wound up with the victim losing six figures at least.

One of the more recent advertisers on this blog — Ninjio — specializes in developing custom, “gamified” security awareness training videos for clients. “The Homeless Homebuyer,” one of the videos Ninjio produced for a government client seems appropriate here: It features an animated FBI agent breaking the bad news to some would-be homeowners that their money is gone and so are their dreams of a new home — all because everyone blindly trusted unsecured email for what is essentially a high-risk cash transaction.

I like the video because its message is fairly stark and real: You could get screwed if you don’t take this seriously and proceed carefully, because once the money’s gone it usually stays gone. Check it out here:

So here’s what you need to know if you or anyone you know, love or even like are about to buy or sell a home: Never wire money based on the say-so of one party to the transaction made via email. You simply don’t know if their account is hacked, so from a self-preservation standpoint it’s best to assume it is.

Agree in advance who will contact whom — preferably by phone — on settlement day to receive the wiring details, and who will manage the wiring process. Never trust bank account details and payment instructions sent via email. Always double or even triple check any instructions for wiring money at settlement. Confirm all wiring instructions in person if possible, or else over the phone.

By the way, these same precautions can help make organizations less susceptible to CEO fraud schemes, email scams in which the attacker spoofs the boss and tricks an employee at the organization into wiring funds to the fraudster.

The Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) has been keeping a running tally of the financial devastation visited on companies via CEO fraud scams. In June 2016, the FBI estimated that crooks had stolen nearly $3.1 billion from more than 22,000 victims of these wire fraud schemes.

Castagnoli said many credit unions and small banks don’t have the legal staff with the clearance to make calls on whether to issue a hold harmless agreement, and so they usually try to punt on that when requested. Were she in The Littles’ position, Castagnoli said she would have called the head of the credit union and demanded assistance.

“If the head of the bank wouldn’t do it, I’d call my congressperson or a state banking regulator,” she said.

If you’re selling or buying the home yourself and somehow also in charge of wiring money, consider using a Live CD approach (all of these “live” Linux distributions will just as happily run on USB-based flash drives). I have long recommend Live Linux usage as a smart option for small businesses to avoid paying dearly when a Windows banking trojan snarfs their business banking credentials.

 

Radon In Homes- What Are The Risks?

Copyright 2016 New Home Buyers Brokers / Realty Pros

What Is Radon?

Radon gas is colorless, odorless and tasteless radioactive gas. It is formed by the breakdown of uranium, a natural radioactive material found in soil, rock and groundwater.

What Is The Threat of Radon?

Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. In the United States, the EPA estimates that about 21,000 lung cancer deaths each year are radon related and in Canada that number stands at approximately 3000.

How Does Radon Get Into The Home?

When radon is released from the ground into the outdoor air, it gets diluted to low concentrations and is not a concern. Within homes, it typically moves up through the flooring system and other openings between the ground and living spaces. Your home traps radon inside, where it can build up. Any home may have a radon problem – this means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. Even if you live in an area with fairly low environmental radon, you could still have significant levels in your home.

What Are The Radon Threshold Limits?

Organization
Becquerel per cubic meter
Picocuries per litre

World Health Organization
100 Bq/m³
2.7 pCi/L

Environmental Protection Agency (USA)
150 Bq/m³
4.0 pCi/L – The USA standard is 4.0 Pico Curie Liters or less-

Health Canada
200 Bq/m³
5.4 pCi/L

Why

Should I Test for Radon?

Radon testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States and Canada. Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home because that is where you spend most of your time.

Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States and Canada is estimated to have an elevated radon level. This may be higher in your local area, contact your Realtor for a recommendation for a licensed radon Inspector or your local health department for localized information.

How do Licensed Radon Home Inspectors Test for Radon?

In a real estate transaction, the Home Inspector conducts a short term test using a continuous monitor to provide a snapshot of the home to see if it has elevated levels of Radon. Testing takes approximately 2-3 days and results are provided, interpreted and the report is sent directly to the client.

If you’re buying a home, both the EPA and Health Canada recommend you have a radon inspection along with your home inspection. Homeowners who are planning on selling their home can also show potential buyers proof of a radon inspection, which is a good idea as radon gains more awareness.

Reason for Using Continuous Monitors Versus Charcoal Canisters in Testing Radon

  • Employs internal sensors to detect and report movement during test.
  • Interval information logged to determine environment around the monitor was not altered.
  • Records evidence of tampering such as movement and sudden change in environment.
  • Report is available immediately with no need for shipment or reading of anything by a lab.
  • Faster for use in real estate transactions with a short transaction period.

Radon Questions and Answers

My home was built on a slab. Could I still have radon?

Yes, homes built on a slab can still have radon. Whether the home is old, new, insulated or not and regardless of construction materials it can have radon. All homes regardless of type of construction should be tested for radon once per year per the EPA and Health Canada.

We are moving to a new area soon and are buying a home. We recently looked at a Radon Map with zones on it and see that some areas are not in a high risk zones. Should we still test our home for radon if not in a high risk area?

Since radon levels can change from town to town and even from home to home, radon maps should not be considered the definitive source for radon level information. The EPA and Health Canada suggest all homeowners test their home for radon even if they are not in the high risk zone and that the map should not be used in lieu when there is a real estate transaction. In fact, a home can test high for radon even if the house right next door tested low. Radon is more prevalent in some areas more than others- in mountainous or outlying areas, and more in basement than non-basement excavations. Sometimes Radon could test high when dirt has been recently disturbed (such as when building a new home, for example), and it can dissipate over time- or increase.

We recently had our home tested for radon and it came back high when tested in the basement. As long as we spend little to no time in the basement, is the radon really dangerous to us?

Yes, having a high radon level in the basement can affect you in other areas of the home by the gas moving through the home via air ducts for air conditioning and the furnace, as well as natural convection.

Which homes are more likely to have higher radon levels, new homes or old homes?

All homes regardless of new or old, single or multi story, slab or with basement can have radon.

The home we bought has a radon mitigation system in it. Do I need to still test my home for radon levels?

Yes, even if a home has a radon mitigation system in it, you need to test your home for radon as the EPA and Health Canada suggests. Regular testing will ensure that the radon mitigation system is working effectively.

We have granite countertops in our kitchen and our bathrooms in our home. Will this increase the amount of radon in our home to an unsafe amount?

While the EPA and Health Canada suggest all homes should be tested for radon it also believes that currently they have insufficient data to conclude that the types of granite commonly used in countertops will significantly increase the indoor radon levels. Both EPA and Health Canada believe that the radon from granite will be insignificant.

Does it matter what time of year I test my home for radon?

No, testing can be done at any time of the year. Testing does require the home to have all of its windows and doors kept closed during the test, but central heating and air conditioning can operate. If the windows and doors cannot be kept closed during the test, it would be best to wait until the conditions allow for it.

I’ve heard radon testing is expensive. Are the risks significant enough to justify the test?

Radon testing is done by a professional and at a relatively minor cost. Tests cost less than a few hundred dollars, and knowing the results should bring you significant peace of mind.

Our radon level came in very close to 4.0 pCi/L (the US standard) or 200 bequerels (Canadian standard) and we see that’s well above the World Health Organization standard of 2.7 pCi/L (100 bequerels). Should we take steps to lower the level even though it’s below 4.0 pCi/L?

Less radon in your home is always better. Both the EPA and Health Canada recommend taking action above those levels, but for your own peace of mind, you should consider mitigation systems at any significant level of radon. Consult with your radon professional for more advice.

My home is built over a crawl space. Do I need to have it tested for radon?

Yes, all homes need to be tested for radon. Radon can still enter the home through floor penetrations and the HVAC system and accumulate to elevated levels in the home.

How can radon affect my health?

The only known health risk associated with exposure to high levels of radon in indoor air is an increased lifetime risk of developing lung cancer. The risk from radon exposure is long term and depends on the level of radon, how long a person is exposed and their smoking habits. If you are a smoker and are exposed to elevated levels of radon your risk of developing lung cancer increases significantly.

How much will it cost to mitigate my house?

The cost of reducing radon in your house depends on how your home was built and the extent of the radon problem. The average radon remediation process, typically done using a contractor, will cost between $1500 – $3000. The cost is much less if a passive system was installed during construction. There are also less expensive radon mitigation systems available through most big box hardware stores (such as Home Depot and Lowes), though most Realtors recommend a professionally installed system so you will have the peace of mind that the system is working at top efficiency.

I am a smoker. Does radon affect me more than a non-smoker?

Yes. The risk from radon exposure for a smoker (including those exposed to second hand smoke) is much greater than for a non-smoker. For example, if you are a lifelong smoker but are not exposed to radon, your risk of getting lung cancer is one in ten. If you add exposure to a high level of radon, your risk becomes one in three. On the other hand, if you are a non-smoker, your lifetime lung cancer risk at the same high radon level is only one in twenty.

Are children more at risk from radon than adults?

Children have been reported to be at greater risk than adults for certain types of radiation exposure, but there is currently no conclusive data on whether children are at greater risk than adults from radon.

What about drinking water that contains radon?

Research has shown that drinking water that contains radon is far less harmful than breathing radon. When the ground produces radon, it can dissolve and accumulate in water from underground sources, such as wells. When water that contains radon is agitated when used for daily household requirements radon gas escapes from the water and goes into the air. The health risk is not from ingestion but from radon inhalation.

If you would like more information on Radon visit:
USA: www.epa.gov/radon

 

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Kristen Haynes, Realtor / Broker NC / SC, BIC, GC, CMRS

Direct: 704-905-4062

Toll-Free: 1-877-372-2252

Email: khaynes@newhomesnc-sc.com

Web: www.NewHomesNC-SC.com

The Ballantyne Area In South Charlotte Far Outpaces Other Nearby Zip Codes for Home Activity and Schools

Tuesday, Jul. 01, 2014

DR1

Ballantyne Area’s Popularity Far Exceeds Nearby Areas, Data Shows
Portions Reprinted from the article in The Charlotte observer by Elisabeth Arriero – www.CharlotteObserver.com

Average monthly move-ins for the last 12 months in Ballantyne is around 446, according to Welcomemat Services.

For Sale sign- web

By The Numbers:

Source: Welcomemat

ZIP Code: 28134 (Pineville, NC):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 66

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 2,318

ZIP Code: 28105 (Matthews, NC):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 200

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 11,811

ZIP Code: 28226 (South Charlotte by Carmel Road):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 227

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 11,368

ZIP Code: 28270 (South Charlotte):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 170

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 9,176

ZIP Code: 28277 (Ballantyne):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 446

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 18,047

ZIP Code: 29715 (Fort Mill, SC):

• Average Monthly Move-ins for 2013: 135

• Owner-occupied dwellings: 7,504

MVC-003S

Does this create more activity for South Charlotte, in general?

The flurry of home buyer activity in Ballantyne’s 28277 ZIP code doesn’t appear to have a spillover effect in neighboring ZIP codes, according to recent real estate data.

In June, Atlanta-based Welcomemat Services released data that showed the Ballantyne area was the second-most-moved-in ZIP code in the country, at least for May 4-31.

The company, which provides information to local businesses that want to reach new residents with direct-mail packets, released a report showing the Ballantyne ZIP code – 28277 – had 594 move-ins for that period.

Average monthly move-ins for the last 12 months in Ballantyne is around 446.

But bordering ZIP codes, including 28134 in Pineville, 28226 near the Arboretum, 28270 near the Promenade, 28105 in Matthews and 29715 in Fort Mill aren’t experiencing the same activity.

Average move-ins over the last 12 months for these areas range from as low as 66 in Pineville to as high as 227 for the Arboretum area, according to Welcomemat.

The average days on the market, which is the number of days a home is for sale in a particular market, also is consistently lower in Ballantyne.

For instance, in 2014, the average days on the market for homes sold was 61 in Ballantyne.

Average days on the market for that same period was 73 in 28270, 72 in 28226, 92 in 28105, 82 in 28134 and 82 in 29715.

Charlotte City view 2014

What Makes Ballantyne So Special?:

Real estate professionals and urban planning experts don’t dispute that south Charlotte is a popular place to live compared with other parts of the city, especially given the location, the job market and quality of the area schools.

But they cited several factors to explain why 28277 is specifically sought out. Real estate agents said home buyers are requesting to live specifically in Ballantyne and not just the south Charlotte area.

People are drawn to newer homes. While buyers can find a great home in Providence Plantation or Quail Hollow, it’s not likely to be as modern as a Ballantyne Country Club home.

Ballantyne is newer, which is more appealing for people relocating here,

He said there also are a lot of new businesses coming to Ballantyne, including Met Life, a new Publix, Whole Foods and various bank branches.

That helps feed the frenzy,

Sun City Under Construction Pre drywall

All of that new construction may help explain the large number of move-ins. After all, with all of those new homes, of course there would be more home-buyer activity,

You pay less per square foot in south Charlotte than in places like Dilworth or Myers Park. You can get a lot more house for your money here.

Another big draw for the Ballantyne area specifically is the nationally recognized schools. Residents living in 28277 are likely to attend Ballantyne, Elon Park, Hawk Ridge and Polo Ridge elementary schools; Community House Middle School and Ardrey Kell Middle School – all of which “are top schools” with high test scores.

Mary Newsom, associate director for Urban & Regional Affairs at UNC Charlotte’s Urban Institute, said people are likely drawn to Ballantyne because it has firmly established a center, which is the arches at Ballantyne Commons Parkway and Johnston Road.

“And while it’s not as cute and lovable as (Plaza Midwood), it’s clearly a center and there are a lot of things you can do there. People like going to a place that feels like it has a place.”

Other than strip malls, there really isn’t much of a center in the nearby ZIP codes, said Newsom.

“I won’t say it’s walkable, but it’s certainly a condensed area where people can find what they’re looking for in terms of restaurants, shopping, golf courses, health clubs, anything that they want to find,” Brown said.

Newsom added that Ballantyne has done a great job of branding the entire area.

“Ballantyne has done a lot to position itself as Ballantyne as opposed to other areas where you have a whole bunch of different names,” she said. “They’ve been able to brand this massive area as Ballantyne.”

Want More Information On The Greater Ballantyne Region?

Home Scouting® MLS Mobile - screenshot

GET MY “REALTOR’s” ENTIRE, PROFESSIONAL MLS AND TAX RECORD DATABASE, HERE FOR FREE!

As a courtesy to all of you that follow my blog and are finding the “typical” home search sites-like Zillow and Trulia totally lacking in accuracy (or you don’t want your information sold to third parties like Trulia and Zillow do), there is a professional site that I am offering my friends and clients free access to- it’s called “Home Scouting”- it allows you to check the value of your home anytime, check the price of a listing on your street or one that has sold, look up foreclosures or courthouse and tax records, and generally have an entire MLS and courthouse database at your command.

FIND HOMES FOR SALE ANYTIME, ANYWHERE- EVEN AT THE CURB IN FRONT OF A HOME, RIGHT ON YOUR SMARTPHONE OR TABLET!

INCLUDING… WHAT IS MY HOME WORTH TODAY? WHAT IS SELLING IN MY AREA OR NEIGHBORHOOD?

You can sign up for “home sold” alerts to keep yourself up to date on what is selling around you in your neighborhood, zip code, county or city (or any state or city in the country that offers the service), or pull up the whole MLS listing outside a house from your smartphone or do complete home searches from your phone, tablet or laptop. It’s REALLY cool! And, unlike Zillow or Trulia, your information is never sold to third parties when you search (goodbye, spam!)! The information comes directly from current MLS feeds and current tax records, so the information is ALWAYS up to date and ACCURATE, unlike Zillow and Trulia or similar sites that “pull information from the air’ and compile it- usually incorrectly. Realtors and Brokers manage the content and MLS feeds, so although you will see that it is a branded site (with my logo and information or the Broker who is offering it in your area), no one will be trying to sell anything to you- or sell your contact information to others! But we will available to help you navigate around, should you need anything, have questions, or need more information. It’s like having a Realtor’s professional database, without your having to pay dues (like we Realtors have to) to access this information!

HOW TO SIGN UP AND GET STARTED:

To download the app from your smartphone or tablet, go to your Apple or Android / Google App store, search for “Home Scouting“, and put in my VIP code: 7049054062. Then create your own anonymous user name and password. To download the program on your desktop or laptop, put this code in your browser window and sign up using the same process:

http://hbsr.homescouting.com/myapp/b8ec2b9b-eb2d-4f19-9aa3-e9047c46a843

Please note, this is not available in all cities yet- just the ones that Brokers allow their access to. This link is for the greater Charlotte, North Carolina and the surrounding SC MLS area. You can contact me if you need help navigating around the site or have any questions while using it. Feel free to pass this along to any of your family and friends that may find it useful. Enjoy checking it out- it’s really fun!

s41646ca107210_2_0  KristenHaynes_CHARRE13_Em_Horiz-01  Certified Military Residential Specialist-logo  EHO logo  Logos for page Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, GC, CMRS

copyright © 2014 New Home Buyers Brokers / Realty Pros

 

 

 

 

 

FREE HOME SEARCH! Find Out What Your Home Is Worth Today or Search For A Home On Your Smartphone, Tablet or Laptop!

NOW YOU CAN HAVE A REALTOR ‘S ENTIRE, PROFESSIONAL MLS AND TAX RECORD DATABASE AVAILABLE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC, FOR FREE!

As a courtesy to all of you that follow my blog and are finding the “typical” home search sites-like Zillow and Trulia totally lacking in accuracy (or you don’t want your information sold to third parties like Trulia and Zillow do), there is a professional site that I am offering my friends and clients free access to- it’s called “Home Scouting”- it allows you to check the value of your home anytime, check the price of a listing on your street or one that has sold, look up foreclosures or courthouse and tax records, and generally have an entire MLS and courthouse database at your command.

FIND HOMES FOR SALE ANYTIME, ANYWHERE- EVEN AT THE CURB IN FRONT OF A HOME, RIGHT ON YOUR SMARTPHONE OR TABLET!

Home Scouting® MLS Mobile - screenshot

WHAT IS MY HOME WORTH TODAY? WHAT IS SELLING IN MY AREA OR NEIGHBORHOOD?

You can sign up for “home sold” alerts to keep yourself up to date on what is selling around you in your neighborhood, zip code, county or city (or any state or city in the country that offers the service), or pull up the whole MLS listing outside a house from your smartphone or do complete home searches from your phone, tablet or laptop. It’s REALLY cool! And, unlike Zillow or Trulia, your information is never sold to third parties when you search (goodbye, spam!)! The information comes directly from current MLS feeds and current tax records, so the information is ALWAYS up to date and ACCURATE, unlike Zillow and Trulia or similar sites that “pull information from the air’ and compile it- usually incorrectly. Realtors and Brokers manage the content and MLS feeds, so although you will see that it is a branded site (with my logo and information or the Broker who is offering it in your area), no one will be trying to sell anything to you- or sell your contact information to others! But we will available to help you navigate around, should you need anything, have questions, or need more information. It’s like having a Realtor’s professional database, without your having to pay dues (like we Realtors have to) to access this information!

HOW TO SIGN UP AND GET STARTED:

To download the app from your smartphone or tablet, go to your Apple or Android / Google App store, search for “Home Scouting“, and put in my VIP code: 7049054062. Then create your own anonymous user name and password. To download the program on your desktop or laptop, put this code in your browser window and sign up using the same process:

http://hbsr.homescouting.com/myapp/b8ec2b9b-eb2d-4f19-9aa3-e9047c46a843

.

Please note, this is not available in all cities yet- just the ones that Brokers allow their access to. This link is for the greater Charlotte, North Carolina and the surrounding SC MLS area. You can contact me if you need help navigating around the site or have any questions while using it. Feel free to pass this along to any of your family and friends that may find it useful. Enjoy checking it out- it’s really fun!

s41646ca107210_2_0  KristenHaynes_CHARRE13_Em_Horiz-01  Certified Military Residential Specialist-logo  EHO logo  Logos for page Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, GC, CMRS

copyright © 2014 New Home Buyers Brokers / Realty Pros

 

 

 

 

 

8 Secrets For Saving Thousands When Buying Your Next Home

 

8 Secrets For Saving Thousands When Finding, Buying And Financing Your Next Home

Here’s A Helpful Guide For Buying The Right Home, At The Right Price And Getting The Right Financing, brought to you by Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, Realtor NC / SC

For Sale sign- web

“You Don’t Make Money When You Sell Real Estate, You Make Money When You BUY It!

Dear Home Buyer,

Do you see the statement above?  Someone once told me it was written backwards…that you only make money when you SELL real estate.  “How on earth could you make money when you buy it?” he said.

But that statement IS accurate.  You see, you might receive your sales proceeds when you sell your home, but it’s how well you BOUGHT your home that will determine HOW MUCH your proceeds will be.

But the story doesn’t end there.  Finding the right home, and making a prudent financial investment is more involved than just “buying right.”  You also need to FINANCE it right.

Even Experienced Homeowners Make Costly Mistakes When Buying And Financing Their Home!

Hi, our company’s name is “New Home Buyers Brokers”. You can tell from our name that we specialize in Buyer Representation- and we are committed to helping people buy the right home at the right price…AND with the right financing.

It’s no surprise that borrowing $100,000…$200,000 or more is a lot of money.  And how to FIND the right home…how much to PAY for the home…how much to BORROW…and on what FINANCIAL TERMS can literally mean tens of thousands of dollars MORE or LESS in your pocket!

If you’re like most people, the decision to buy a home involves a number of stresses and strains.  For about 80% of buyers, it’s the single largest financial transaction of their lives.  Mistakes in any part of the buying process can cost you thousands.

That’s why we wrote this special report…to give you a number of helpful, straightforward tips for finding a home that meets your needs, AND becomes a wise financial investment for you in the future.

Here are 8 strategies (we call them “secrets” because so many home buyers disregard them when buying) you should consider when buying your next home…

 

Secret #1:  Understand What You NEED In Your Next Home.

Two things you need to consider here: Your NEEDS…and your WANTS.  They’re two very different things.

You may need 4 bedrooms because of your children, or need a 3 car garage because of your 3 cars…

What you’ll find is your needs are fairly basic.  It’s the “wants” that take a little more time to clarify.  Here is a list of needs you should consider BEFORE looking for your home:

  1. General price range of home – we’ll cover this fully when discussing financing options and the amount of home you can afford (or the amount you want to spend for your monthly mortgage payment).
  2. Time frame (ideally when you’ll want to move in- for example, after Christmas, or when your lease term expires, etc.)
  3. Approximate size of home (in sq. footage) – make a reasonable range
  4. General location, area, or subdivision (30 miles to work, North Charlotte, etc.)
  5. Number of bedrooms required (don’t forget to include any home offices or guest rooms).
  6. Number of bathrooms you’ll need
  7. Style and layout of home: Do you want a more formal plan, or a Transitional plan? (ie, the Master down, a large Great Room, a Ranch floor plan, etc.)
  8. School requirements or districts
  9. Builder Inventory home, To-Be-Built, or Existing homes? How many years old?
  10. Do you have money for “fix up” items on top of your down payment, closing costs, inspections and warranty, or do you want a “move-in” ready home? (By the way, a good Buyer’s Agent can get usually get some money in your negotiations towards closing costs or a warranty).

Secret #2: Understand What You WANT In Your Next Home.

A great way to get a handle on your wants is to take a good look at your present home.  What do you like about it?  Do you like its open floor plan?  Do you like the kitchen and eating areas?  Do you like the bathroom layout?

List out everything you like about your present home, or homes you’ve visited.

Now, let’s take a look at what you don’t like about your home.  Do you hate the small closets?  Do you want the Master bedroom upstairs?  Are the bedrooms too small?  Is the kitchen too far from the garage? Do you need more closets or storage space?

If you dislike something with your present home, you’re going to dislike it with your new home.  So the better you can identify these items, the more likely you are to avoid them.

Here’s a good suggestion: Take out a piece of paper and draw a vertical line down the middle.  In the left column, write down everything you like about your present home.  In the right column, write down everything you dislike about your present home.  It’s also important you understand WHY you dislike something.

Now, from your list of “likes,” let’s compile a list of features you want for your new home.  Now, here’s an important tip that will help you really narrow your focus.

Take out another sheet of paper and put two columns on it.  On the left hand side, you will be listing out the features of your home.  And on the right hand side, you’ll be listing out the benefits. For each feature, you want to list the benefit of that feature.

Features tell you what something IS: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, 3 car garage, etc.  Benefits tell you what something DOES.  Benefits fulfill desires.

For example, a great room concept (feature) will be ideal for entertaining friends and family at special times (benefit).  So on the left hand side, you would put “great room..”  And on the right hand side, list out all the benefits (or reasons) for the “great room” design: Family entertaining, business entertaining, Thanksgiving holidays with the family, etc.

 

Understand What Each Other Is Looking For, And WHY

If you’re a husband and wife looking for a home, this exercise will eliminate many disagreements down the road.  You will both understand what the other wants, and WHY they want it.

We recommend you RANK each feature in terms of its importance to you and your spouse.  You’re both going to live in the home, so you better understand what the other is looking for.

 

For example, a well designed gourmet kitchen (remember, list ALL the features of the kitchen you’re looking for) may rank high with a woman, while having a workshop may rank high with a man.  Try to understand each other’s priorities.

 

Most People Have More Dreams Than Money

 

Ranking will also show you areas you may need to eliminate because of price constraints.  And by having each person rank the importance of the features they want, you won’t be eliminating a high priority item and putting additional stress on an already stressful time.

 

Secret #3:  Understand How Much Home You Can Afford.

 

            Like it or not, there are 2 guidelines bankers and mortgage lenders use to determine how much loan you can afford.

 

The first guideline is the Payment To Income Ratio.  This guideline compares your income – or your total household income – to the amount of mortgage payment you’re considering.  (We specialize in “buyer’s finance”, and can help you with this if this seems too confusing).

 

To calculate the “payment” part of the formula, the lender will take the mortgage payment (principal + interest) and add to it Property Taxes and Insurance. Hence the term “PITI” (principal, interest, taxes, and insurance).

 

Usually lenders will loan up to 28 % of your total household income.

 

But before you think you’re home free, there’s something else you need to know…

 

It’s called the Debt To Income Ratio.  Debt refers to ALL the major monthly payments other than your mortgage payment (PITI).  To arrive at this amount, the lender will consider…

 

Your car payment…

Your credit card debt and payments…

Any IRS liens or payments due…

Any other payments and debts you have (boat, 2nd home, etc.)

 

Then, they’ll compare your total debt to your ability to make current payments with your new home loan added into the equation.

 

Now, here’s the “stickler.”  Each mortgage company sets different limits on your Debt To Income ratio.  Which is why it’s critically important to find a MOTIVATED LENDER.

 

Don’t follow the “canned” financial advice like you see on TV.  Most of that advice is “rule of thumb,” and designed for the lowest credit rating and highest interest rates.

 

Think about this…

 

If you spend 2 or 3 days to find a loan that saves you $40,000 to $150,000 over its term, your time is WELL SPENT!  Doing a little homework on your own will literally save you thousands over the term of your loan. We will only refer you to people who are the best in the business. These are professionals that we have personally used countless times in the past- and they know to treat our customers like GOLD. They will give you the best rates, a free Pre-Qualification, and will not “screw you over”. Because we trust them and know how good they are, we’ll even pay for your initial credit report,  (called an “In-File”  in the mortgage business).

 

Secret #4:  Save A Bundle When Financing.

 

Your ability to afford a home will be related to a number of items.  They are…

 

  1. The PRICE of the home;
  2. Your DOWN PAYMENT on your home, and thus the amount financed;
  3. The INTEREST RATE and POINTS of your loan – the amount a bank charges you for the money;
  4. The TERM of your loan: 10 year, 15 year, 30 year.
  5. The overall TYPE of your loan: Most common is fixed vs. variable (or, ARM ) rates. There are literally hundreds of new loan packages to choose from. Some help you with your down payment (0 % down programs are available for those who are cash-strapped but have excellent credit), some save you money on PMI ( Private Mortgage Insurance, which everyone has to pay if you put down less than 20 %), some let you keep more money in your pockets as a shield against taxation, and some are backed by the Government (FHA and VA loans). We’ll help you through the maze of programs and help you narrow down exactly which plan works best for your budget and lifestyle.

 

And just in case you were looking for a specific “rule of thumb,” for financing your home, you should know that…

 

There Are NO General Rules Of Thumb About Financing Your Home!

 

Each case is different, and your personal financial circumstances will have an impact on how much home you can afford.

 

However, you MUST understand the relationship and impact interest rates, term of loan, points, and type of loan can have on your overall financial picture.

 

Let’s start with the “amount financed” first.  Many people often pay cash or put 20% or more down as equity.  The reasons they do this are…

 

“The bank required us to…”

            “We’ve just always put down this amount…”

            “We wanted a lower payment.”

 

Problem is, these reasons could cost you thousands of dollars.

 

The answer for how much you can put down on your home is different for most people.  However, we have learned over time that…

 

Many People Put Down More Cash On Their Home Than They Need To,

And Could Have Received A Better Return On Investment Had

They Invested The Money Instead Of Putting It Into Their Home

Here’s a simple and fast way to “ballpark” the actual annual return on investment you get from the money you put down on your home:

 

  1. Take a look at the homes in the area you’re considering.  How much have the homes appreciated, each year on average, over the past 5 years?  For example, you might find that values have increased an average of 5 % a year. ( We‘ll help you figure this out by performing a CMA (Comparitive Market Analysis) for you. Charlotte’s average for NEW homes right now is a PHENOMENAL 14.9 %! Compare that to the stock market, but don’t forget to add in your tax savings, too- and, remember that this return is with VERY LITTLE RISK!

 

  1. Now, take the total cost of your new home, multiply that value times 14.9 % (the average expected annual appreciation of a NEWLY BUILT home).  For example, a $150,000 home, increasing in value at 14.9 % the first year.  Thus, the home could be worth $22,350 more a year from now! WOW!

 

  1. Now, divide the amount of increase in your home ($2,250 in the example) by the total amount of Down Payment you put into the home.  For example, if you put down 20% (or $30,000), then $2,250/$30,000 = 7.5%.

 

Now 7.5% sounds like a fair investment.  But the question you need to ask is this: Can you make more than 7.5% elsewhere?

 

And did you notice something else here?  Had you put down just $15,000, your return on your Down Payment would be 15%!

 

The moral of the story:  Putting more money into your home may make your banker happy, because it lowers the risk of getting his money out if you default. That’s why they require “PMI” (legislation is currently pending to require lenders to eliminate this coverage altogether, if your loan meets certain criteria).

 

Putting down more money may make your overall payment a little lower…

 

But it may be a wiser decision to put less into your home, IF you can locate an alternate investment that will pay greater interest on your hard-earned equity. *Trick of the trade: If you still want to put more money down, the best place to do it is to buy down the interest rate, instead of increasing your down payment. Ask us, and we’ll show you how it decreases your mortgage payment even more this way…

 

Now, let’s shift gears a little and talk about the impact Term and Interest rate will have on your overall financial picture…

 

 

How INTEREST RATE and TERM can make or COST you thousands.

 

Mortgage lenders toss around interest rate numbers as if they didn’t matter.

 

They DO!

 

And to illustrate the impact interest rates can have on your overall financial picture, we’ve presented a table below showing the interest you pay over the term of a 30 year, $150,000 loan at 6%, 7% and 8%. (Keep in mind that rates today are lower than this estimate, hovering around 4.25 to 5.0 %, depending on your credit score and what type of loan you are considering).

 

Here’s the clincher: Just ONE percentage point on a $150,000 loan can cost you almost $37,000 over the term of the loan!  TWO percentage points will cost you over $72,000!!

 

Your banker might tell you his “slightly higher rate” is only a matter of $103 a month in payment.  But YOU should know better!  Take a look at the table below…

 

Loan Amount

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

Interest Rate

 

8%

 

7%

 

6%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$1,101

 

$998

 

$899

Interest Paid

 

$246,233

 

$209,263

 

$173,757

Savings

 

 

$36,970

 

$72,476

 

That’s money taken out of your pocket if you don’t look for good rates!

 

And if you think interest rate has an impact on your overall financial picture, take a look at what modifying the TERM of your loan can do…

 

Here’s another example of a $150,000 loan at 7% interest.  But this time, we examine the total interest paid when you select a 30 year vs. a 15 year vs. a 10 year amortization…

 

Term

 

30 Year

 

15 Year

 

10 Year

Interest Rate

 

7%

 

7%

 

7%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$998

 

$1,348

 

$1,742

Interest Paid

 

$209,280

 

$92,640

 

$59,040

Savings

 

 

$116,640

 

$150,240

 

The “bottom line”?  Estimate the maximum amount of payment you can afford, and adjust TERM and INTEREST RATE of your loan to minimize the amount of total interest you’ll pay (You can also go to our website, www.NewHomesNC-SC.com, for an amortization schedule and to get payment/mortgage calculations for varying interest rates).

 

But then your banker cuts in and says, “but the interest you pay is Tax Deductible…”   you should know this:  If you’re in the 28% tax bracket, for every dollar in interest you pay, you only save 28 cents.  Don’t go spending a dollar to save 28 cents if you can help it!

 

Here’s How To Instantly Know How Many Points You Should Pay…

 

Another consideration in the formula is the amount of POINTS your lender will charge you to initiate your loan.  And what you’ll notice is there’s a GAME being played with you- and they hold the aces!

 

And if you don’t know the rules of the game, it can come back to bite you!

 

Sitting across from a banker while he throws obscure numbers at you that mean nothing to you can make you feel stupid and can be pretty overwhelming.  And frequently you’ll hear terms like “7.5% with 1.5 points,” or “7.25 with 1 point.”

 

All-the-while you’re thinking to yourself, “I have no idea what he is saying or what the financial impact of this guy’s blabbering means.”  And quite frankly, your banker knows…

 

The Less You Know About What You’re Paying, The Better For HIM!

 

That’s how they make their money. Hopefully this little “ballpark” example below will help you quickly determine the best points-to-interest rate for you.  How many points should you pay, and what formula is best for you?  Here’s a little help…

 

If a banker is giving you several options of interest rates and points, you need to sort out the financial consequences so you don’t lose money.  Say, for example, you were considering 2 loans.  Both are for $150,000, and both are 30 year amortization.

 

DEAL #1: One loan he offers you is 7.5% with 0 points for origination… the loan origination fee is part of what the bank or lender “makes as their fee” on your loan. The “yield spread premium” is how much they are charging you that is ABOVE typical interest rates, that goes directly to their bottom line (ie, extra padding that they don’t have to pay to other borrowers above their typical loan fees). We don’t have to tell you, you don’t want that to be YOU! NEVER, EVER pay a yield spread premium. It means that you didn’t do your homework, and they are ripping you off!

DEAL #2: Okay, so another loan he offers you is 7%, but he wants 2 points to originate the loan. NOTE: Generally, each “point” is worth 1% of the loan amount- for example, on a $100,000 loan, 1 point would be equal to $1000.00. This changes with the market- when times are great and rates are low, the points cost you less money, and when rates are high, the points will cost you more money.

What’s the ONE factor that will determine which loan is better?

 

How LONG You Keep The Loan!

 

The first thing you need to think about is how long you’re going to live in that home.  The average homeowner spends about 5.5 years in their home before selling for whatever reason. They move up, need more room for a family, their job changes, etc.

 

So, for example sake, let’s say you plan to live in the home 5 years.  Here’s how you determine which deal is better…

 

  1. Take the difference in monthly payments (principal and interest only) of EACH loan…
  2. Multiply that amount by 12 months to get the annual amount of difference…
  3. DIVIDE that amount into the $$ amount of points you pay to determine the number of years at which you recover the points paid up front.  If the number of years is LESS than your anticipated time in your home, you’ll be better off paying the points and getting the lower rate.  If it’s higher than you plan to spend in the home, opt for the lower points.

 

 

 

Here’s an Example…

 

Loan

 

 

#1, $150,000

 

#2, $150,000

 

Points Paid

 

0

 

2.5

Cost of Points

 

$0

 

$3,750

Interest Rate

 

 

7.5%

 

7.0%

 

  1. Payment

 

 

$1,049

 

$998

 

 

  1. The difference in monthly payments is $51 a month ($1049 – $998 = $51).
  2. $51 X 12 months is a savings on (approximate) interest of $612 per year.
  3. Total Cost Of Points divided by $612 is 6.13 years ($3,750/$612 = 6.13).

The result?  If you stay in your home for 5 years, you will NOT recoup the points you paid up front with the savings in a lower interest rate.  Recoup time is about 6 years and 2 months to breakeven. Do you realistically see living in the home 7 years plus? Remember, on top of that, you will pay a selling commission to list your home out of your home’s appreciation. Easy to do when the market is hot, not so easy when it falls.

 

If you plan on this being a “move up” home, or think that your lifestyle may change within 6 or 7 years, your best bet would be to select loan #1.

 

If, however, you planned to keep your home beyond 6 years and 2 months, you’d be better off with loan #2 (i.e. the overall savings in interest rate will exceed the amount you paid in points – not considering the time value of money).

 

Are you starting to see how important it is to understand your home’s financing?  How important it is to shop for the best rates, terms, and points?

 

Good!  Now, let’s move on to another important secret for buying your home…

 

Secret #5: How You Evaluate Homes Will Save You Thousands And Heartaches!

 

One of the biggest mistakes people make when buying homes is they rely solely on “local neighborhood market analysis information” to determine the right price to pay for a home.

 

Before you buy or refinance your next home, INSIST on seeing a “total market overview” of exactly what is going on in the ENTIRE market.  Ie, how the homes and neighborhoods you are looking at compare to similar ones in the city, overall. Then narrow your analysis to local market information (specific 5 or 10 mile radius, then by neighborhood, compared to other comparable neighborhoods nearby). This is especially important when looking at existing homes.

 

Why do we say this?  Because you want to know 2 things: 1) What is the ENTIRE market doing with values?  Are they going up?  And by how much?  2) What is the specific area & neighborhood doing with market values?  How does it compare to what the total market is doing?  Are the growth rates the same, lower, or higher than the overall market? why is THIS neighborhood under-performing? Is it filled with rentals now? Are people lax about taking care of their yards?

 

Understanding these parameters will save you thousands of dollars when you make an offer on a home.  We’re frequently asked to perform both of these analysis for our buyers, so they know EXACTLY what they’re buying!

 

If you are looking at only ‘New Homes’, we’ll help you compare FEATURE to FEATURE what each Builder is giving you for your money- not just price per square foot. How do their provided options stack up in the real world? Which Builder is truly putting more value into their homes with a better quality of construction, and is really giving you more house for your money, and which one talks a big game but the quality just isn’t there? We’ve spent a collective total of 20 years working directly for national builders, doing comparisons on construction quality and optional features. We know how to take all of the hype and help you get down to the “nitty-gritty”- what’s really important, and what they’re NOT telling you that can lose you, literally, thousands of dollars. They all say they’re the best- but which Builders really put their money where their mouth is?

By the way, our Broker In Charge, Kristen Haynes, is an Unlimited Building General Contractor- helpful if you are looking at new construction or are looking at an existing home to root out possible defects). If you are not in our market area (Charlotte, NC, or Charleston, SC), contact us and we can give you a market reference for a quality Realtor / Broker in your area that will be able to aptly assist you).

 

OK, so let’s say you’re now pre-qualified with financing, and you’ve also found a number of homes, whether new or existing, to preview.

 

The Way You Inspect A Home For Sale Can Save You Enormous Amounts Of Money And Time

 

It’s now time to find not only a home that fits your needs, but a home that will be a good investment.  What are some of the things you should look for?

 

Well, one of the first things we pay attention to is what we call “siting.”  Siting involves evaluating 3 areas:  Location, Lot Siting, and Home Siting.

 

The general location of the home you’re considering could determine how happy you’ll be living there, and what kind of an investment you’ll have when you re-sell down the line. Here’s an important tip that will almost always make you money…

 

Buy The Midrange Home In The Best Neighborhood You Can Afford

 

Why do we say this?  Because the better the neighborhood, the better the appreciation for you over time.  And if you buy the midrange home, the home will “generally” appreciate faster and greater than a higher priced home in the same area.

 

Plus, you will most certainly spend money updating or decorating your new home, and you don’t want to get “upside down” on your homes value after spending money for improvements if the market stalls. So remember…

 

NEVER Buy The Top Of The Market If You Can Help It!

 

Now the second area you need to consider is Lot Siting. Lot Siting has to do with WHERE your particular lot is located in the subdivision you’re considering.  We’ll ask for a plat map of the entire subdivision.  Then we’ll take a look at where your home site is located in the subdivision, as far as it relates to location, such as a cul de sac (which is the # 1 requested item at re-sale, as far as lots go), traffic, etc.

 

Is it near a common area?  Does it capture better views than other lots in the area?  Is it more private, or shaped better than other lots?  Is it near a loud street?  Are there lots of trees at the rear? How close is the playground, pool, or tennis courts?

 

Lot “Siting” in a neighborhood will give you a basis for knowing how well the home will appreciate vs. other homes in the neighborhood (assuming the home price is reasonable).

 

Finally, you want to look at the Home Siting.  How well did the builder take advantage of all the amenities the LOT offers a home?  Are the views great?  How’s the curb appeal?  Is there a balance between front and back yards?  Do you see any drainage problems because of where the home has been located on the lot? Is there any standing water in the swales? For how long? What does the builder’s warranty specify about their “tolerances”? Did they save the trees around the home site?

 

When looking at home sites in a new neighborhood, where the landscape is basically untouched, we will consider other things as well: Crawl foundation or Slab? Will the home be built standard, or reverse (with the garage on the left side?) If the home is built reverse plan because of the home site, how does that effect how you’ll live in the house? Will the Master Bedroom still be by the private treed area, or looking into the neighbor’s kitchen? (Reverse plan is like taking a “mirror-image” of the home and “flipping” it, to maximize drainage, elevations of the site, or to work with the natural flow of the landscape). We’ll explore these things, and more, when looking over home sites and reading the blueprints and plot plans and the topography maps, too.

 

Think through these things as you visit each home.

 

Now, as you approach your home, there are other things you want to keep in mind…

 

  1. What is your initial reaction of the home (or home site) as you approach it from the street?  This is called “curb appeal,” and it has a great impact on the value of the home.  Is the home sited right on the lot?  Notice the areas around the home.  Are they well maintained?  Is the landscaping groomed?  After excavating, clearing and grading the home site, what will it look like? Which trees will remain? What will the slope of the driveway or rear yard be like?

 

  1. Take a look at the structure of the home.  As you go through the home, windows and doors should be square, and they should close correctly.  Look around windows and doors for cracks.  Check corners of rooms for sloping or tile/wood cracks.  These may reveal foundation or water problems.

 

  1. Now think about the floor plan of the home.  Is it functional?  Do the common areas flow the way you want them to?  Are the halls narrow and long, or are they open?  How far will you have to carry the groceries from the garage?  Are the rooms the right size and height for your desires?  If there have been any additions, were they done professionally?  Do they fit with the flow and style of the home?

 

  1. Now, check the roof and ceilings.  Is the roof the type you prefer (Architectural versus normal shingle)?  Is it in good condition? Who was the manufacturer? When was the last time the home’s roof was replaced? What is the warranty on the roof (ie, 20 or 30 years), and how long does the warranty have before it expires? Is it already double-layered, or can an existing layer be put on top of the existing roof?

 

  1. Now make a basic check of the plumbing, mechanical, and electrical systems.  Do drains and toilets work correctly?  Is the property connected to sewer, or will you have to deal with a septic system?  Is the electrical wiring up to code?  And are the mechanical systems working properly? On existing homes, make sure you get these systems inspected by a licensed contractor or inspector BEFORE you close any deals!

We have referrals for professional companies that we use all of the time who will go through the home with a fine-toothed comb. They will check for potential structural, mechanical and cosmetic problems. They’ll also perform a termite inspection, along with checking for infestation of other insects or rodents.

  1. With new homes, each and every phase of construction passes vigorous tests by licensed engineers and Inspectors from Mecklenburg County or the ruling principality. This includes a foundation check, framing member check, plumbing, HVAC, windows and doors, electrical, roof, siding, etc. The Builder must pass all inspections in order to get a “C-O”, or Certificate of Occupancy. They cannot close on the home until it has been rigorously inspected and re-inspected, and it has come with a shining recommendation. However, Inspectors are all different, with varying degrees of what they consider “normal”. And FHA and VA Inspectors and Appraisers are a different deal altogether. We’ll help make sure that everything is being done the right way to make sure that the Builder delivers you the best quality home that they could have. We want YOU to have the BEST QUALITY HOME in the neighborhood!

 

Secret #6:  Save Thousands Writing Your Offer And Negotiating Your Deal

 

Years ago a real estate expert told me that the party who is less motivated almost always gets the better deal.  The ONE single element that will determine how well you negotiate your offer is…

 

How MOTIVATED Is The Seller, And How MOTIVATED Are YOU?

If the home has been on the market for over a year, perhaps it’s because the seller hasn’t been motivated enough to sell. Or perhaps the home hasn’t sold and he/she is very motivated.

 

And if you’ve been looking for 4 months, your kids are late for starting school this year because you haven’t found a home yet, and you now have found the right home, YOU may be very motivated to buy!

 

Nevertheless, here’s a tip you MUST bring to any real estate transaction…

 

 

Move Heaven And Earth To AVOID Showing Emotional Attachment To The Home You’re Considering to The Other Side You Are Negotiating With

 

If you’re all giddy about the home, and if you can’t hold back your emotions when you’re around the home, then you could lose thousands when negotiating the purchase.

 

That’s ONE reason why you need an experienced Buyer’s Agent representing you during any transaction. If they are great, they will save you lots of money in your negotiations- plus, they combat the “sweaty hands” syndrome that you are going to feel while the bargaining process is underway.

 

So let’s say you have a Buyer’s Agent representing you and you’re ready to write an offer.

 

What’s the single best piece of information you can have?

 

It’s the comparable sales and market data for the entire market, the neighborhood and the general overall 10 mile area.  Ask your Buyer’s Agent to print out both for you to use.  Now, here’s what you want to do…

 

You want to take a look at 4 important “market tell-tale signs:”

 

  1. Take a look at the currently active (for sale) listings in the area.  Is the home you’re considering priced within reason to the other homes?   If so, you know you’re at a reasonable starting point.

 

  1. Now, take a look at what the average selling price is compared to the listing price.  You may notice that most homes are selling for about 2 to 3 percent less than their offer price.  If that’s the case, you know the original offers were LESS than this amount.  Take this into consideration when making your offer. And leave plenty of room for negotiating other details.

 

  1. make sure you visit several of the other comparable listings in the area.  How does your home compare to the other homes?  Is the home you’re considering in similar shape?  Is it on a nicer home site ?  Is it bigger, smaller, better style, better landscaping, etc.?  These factors will help you determine how much you should pay for your home vs. how much others paid for similar homes in the neighborhood.

 

  1. Now, take a look at the average market times for homes in the area.  If they’re long (evaluated on a market by market basis), the market may be soft, and you might have more negotiating room with your offer.

 

  1. If it’s a ‘New Home’, how many have they sold in the last month? The last year? Now, compare them with their competition. Does one neighborhood or Builder have a faster pace of sales? Why? Have they offered special incentives to past homeowners that they are not offering to you? Does one neighborhood have a pool or amenity that the other one doesn’t have? How much have their prices gone up since they’ve opened? When and Why? What is their estimated Build-Out time? Are they ahead of or behind pace with the Developer’s “take-down” plans for the section and for the neighborhood? What has affected the change?

 

You’re now ready to make your offer.  At this point, I highly recommend you work closely with a Buyer’s Agent to structure your offer, based on your specific needs (for down payment, closing costs, time frame, etc).  They will also talk about strategies such as 1): should you offer a high price and ask the owner to throw in all kinds of extras like a refrigerator and washer / dryer, or should you consider #2): offering a low price and skim your way into the neighborhood? You need to work closely with your Buyer’s Agent to strategize your offer so it is best for YOU, not the seller. Think of it this way: people always talk about a situation being a “win-win”. That’s not how it works in real estate. It’s more like a “lose-lose”- ie,  we will compromise here and give something up like closing costs or the refrigerator, and you will compromise there and move out the closing date so we have time to find another house or move.

 

Secret #7:  Be Financially Prepared – Ahead Of Time!

 

Many people go about the home finding process backwards.  They go through the entire process of searching, evaluating, and writing an offer on their home, WITHOUT being financially prepared.

 

And it usually costs them money.  Big money!

 

Doing a few things up front, BEFORE you go searching will save you a lot of money, time, and hassles. Not to mention, it will make your deal easier for the seller to accept. What are those things?

 

Here are 3 of them.

 

First, find a MOTIVATED, INDEPENDENT lender.  Your Buyer’s agent will help you find the perfect one for your unique situation. PLEASE, don’t just go down to your local bank where you’ll likely to be slowly tortured by some bureaucratic loan process, with a loan officer who makes his bonuses and gets promoted according to how much paperwork he creates (at YOUR expense), how many overrides and yield spread premiums he charges, and how many DECLINES he produced.

 

You see, the only quota a banker has to live by is: “How many BAD loans did you originate and did you protect the BANK’S interests?”  By federal law, they have to “buy back” their bad loans now- so every possible “I” must be dotted and every “t” crossed. Banks are in this business to make money, not to build good will. Big banks offer extra bonuses and overrides based on how much money they charge you, and by how much money they make the bank. Whatever they make over their normal origination fee is extra fluff to them and to the bank that YOU are lining their pockets with. Same thing goes for junk fees. Your Buyer’s Agent will be helpful in determining what is, and what isn’t, a junk fee based on mortgages in your area. Some things they call them are “application fees”, “processing fees”, and the dreaded “yield spread premium” as already discussed.

Lenders split these extra “in-house” fees with the bank and some they get to keep as a BONUS. So, if their “in-house” interest rate is 6%, and they charge YOU 6.5%, they keep the other .05 % as a bonus. The loan origination fee goes to the bank as their payment for services rendered, but the BONUS is theirs to pocket.

 

They don’t get measured by their production…

 

They don’t get measured by their service…

 

They only get measured by the MISTAKES THEY AVOID and how much MONEY they make the bank!

 

Now, we figure if your local banker sees this, he’s going to start reciting all the ad campaign jargon most banks are spouting these days.  But the truth is…

 

There Is Absolutely NO Incentive For A Traditional Banker To Serve Your Interests In Any Way

 

What you want to do is find a mortgage lender who is MOTIVATED to take your loan. One who represents many different products, and can offer you many options for making your loan most affordable.

 

Here’s an important tip: Ask your Buyer’s Agent to refer one or two lenders to you. Why? Realtors have power over lenders, because they send them lots of clients.  It’s not just YOU alone talking to them, with one loan.  It’s their future business looking them square in the face, too. We send them hundreds of loans a year, and they don’t want to ruin that relationship!

 

If they don’t give you first class service, the Buyer’s Agent who referred you will send (ALL) of their clients to someone else.  No money passes hands to refer you- we just want our clients happy and to get paid when the home closes. Independent Lenders are highly motivated to SERVE US and therefore, YOU.  The minute you have a problem with your loan, you can turn to your Buyer’s Agent…who has much more influence and leverage over the lender than you alone. There’s power in numbers and influence.  Use it to your advantage.

Now, the second thing you want to do is GET PRE-QUALIFIED with a lender.  Better yet, try to get PRE-APPROVED.

 

Why?

Because the first question any home seller will ask when an offer is presented is “Is your buyer approved for a mortgage?

 

And rightfully so!  The seller doesn’t want the deal to fall through because you couldn’t get financing.  When the seller accepts your offer, their home comes OFF the active market. If you fall through, it costs them time and money. Most Builder’s average interest payments on completed homes is $ 1300.00  PER HOME, PER MONTH. No kidding. And, if it’s an Inventory home you’re looking at, it will help us to know how long it has been sitting since it was ready to close, so we can get you the best deal!

 

Plus, there’s one more reason to get pre-qualified or approved…

 

You Will Have Much More Power To Negotiate

Price And Terms When You’re Financially Qualified!

 

When you have money behind you, the seller knows you are serious.  And a serious buyer ALWAYS has more influence to negotiate.  So do yourself a favor, GET PRE-QUALIFIED or, better yet, PRE-APPROVED! And, yes, there is a difference. Pre-Qualified means that you got your credit pulled, talked to a lender, and, based on what you initially tell them, “think” that they can get you a loan. Pre-Approved means you have met with them, filled out a loan application, have provided them all documents needed to underwrite the loan, and they have APPROVED YOU to purchase a home, except generally for an appraisal. All they need at this point is an address and a satisfactory appraisal and possibly survey, and an update to the title work. This is a BIG difference to a seller, and a little homework upfront will make your deal MUCH stronger than the next guy’s.

 

 

Secret #8:  Use A BUYERS Agent!

 

There’s a huge difference between a Buyer’s Agent and other agents. First and foremost, if you don’t have a specific agreement to be represented by your agent…

Chances Are, YOUR Agent Represents The SELLER!

 

Yes, it’s true.  And the question you have to ask yourself is… “Is this person going to represent MY interests?”  ALL Listing Agents (the ones with their sign in front of the yard of the home you are considering), and all Builder Representatives are SELLER’S AGENTS.

 

Think about this: If you had to go to court, would you use the same attorney the opposing side was using?  When building a home, who does the Builder Sales Rep. answer to? To you, or to their Boss?

 

I think you know the answer!  But did you know that by creating a “buyers representation” with your agent, you not only get someone representing you, but…

 

  • A Buyer’s representative doesn’t cost you a nickel more than any other agent.  Even though they legally and plainly represent you, they’re still paid out of the standard commission…by the Seller!

 

  • Buyer representation is easy to enter into, and will support ONLY your interests.  This includes finding your home, helping with financing, and negotiating the best possible deal for YOU…

 

  • A Buyer’s representative will keep everything about you and your deal CONFIDENTIAL!

 

OK, so you know the difference between any agent and a “Buyer’s Agent.”  But did you know what a really good Buyer’s Agent can do for you?

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent knows the area you want to buy in because he/she is out constantly looking at homes and knows what’s available on the market…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent can spot trouble for you.  He or she will be experienced at looking at homes and will see things you might not see.

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will greatly simplify the buying process…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will give you MOTIVATED, reliable financing sources and options…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will refer you to proven inspectors, attorneys, title and escrow officers, lenders who specialize in different types of credit situations, and other service providers you’ll need.

 

Most importantly, you need to know that…

 

There Are “Real Estate Agents”…

And Then There Are Full-Time, Committed Professionals. Which One Do YOU Want Representing Your Interests?

 

We hope the information above has given you helpful advice for helping you find, buy and finance your next home.

 

At this point, you’re probably pretty clear that, in order to find the right home and save money, you need someone competent and professional to represent only YOUR interests.

 

We started this company because we came to realize that the majority of Home Buyer’s needs were not being met, while the “Seller” held all of the cards. Home Buyers had no one to turn to for advice and help, or to voice their valid concerns. In fact, that is why we wrote this special report, and structured our practice around giving Home Buyers the competitive edge- along with the most competent service possible.

 

We help clients like you every day. You can always get through to us if you have a question or need assistance. And if we’re busy with another client, there’s a million ways to leave us a message- and we will get back to you as soon as possible. We’re a small, tight-knit, highly dedicated office. You will never be “just a number” to us, and you’ll never feel ignored. We want you to be experts, too! Our business is built by referrals of satisfied customers, ONE client at a time.

There’s a difference between agents who simply sell real estate, and those who COMMIT to doing whatever it takes to serve a clients beyond their expectations. We’ve been in real estate working on behalf of buyers and sellers for a long time. But more importantly, we have the knowledge and experience to make the whole process work like a finely-tuned machine.

We make it a priority to educate you on every aspect of buying the best home for your hard-earned money in your preferred area.  We have a long list of satisfied past clients and professional references whom you may call at any time to discuss the quality of our service and our follow-up.

We guarantee everything we do for you in writing.  This places the burden of risk and performance on US, not you.  We also have references to reputable people in mortgage lending, appraisals, title and escrow companies, tax specialists, attorneys, and even decorators.  These are people we have used in other transactions, and we trust them to take care of our clients like gold.

Each year, we speak with thousands of people directly related to buying or selling real estate.  And we receive over 98% of our new clients through referrals and repeat business.  We want our personal marketing to involve such outstanding and exemplary service to our existing clients and personal network, that they are inclined to share our services with family and friends.

 

We’re Not Saying These Things To Impress Upon You The Difference Between Just A “Real Estate Agent” And A Competent, Dedicated Professional Buyer’s Agent

 

Buying and selling real estate can be tricky business.  And making the wrong choices can cost you a lot of money, headaches, and wasted time.  Believe it or not, when we worked for Builders, we On-Site Reps used to call most Agents “Lazy Agents”! If you’ve ever had a bad or lazy Agent, you’ll know exactly what we mean. They bring in their client, and then disappear until they receive their check at the closing table. That’s why we designed a specific program designed for buyers like you.  We call it our…

Exclusive “Preferred Buyer Program”

Our Preferred Buyers Program is absolutely FREE to you.  Here’s what you’ll get when you enroll…

 

  • A Free Subscription to our “Home Locator” program.  We’ll create a custom search model based on your personal home needs.  Then, we’ll enter you into our Home Search system where our computers will sift through the market each night to find hidden bargains and new listings before anyone else gets them. Each day, we’ll search the homes on the market that meet your personal desires. We’ll also:

 

  • Evaluate the value of your chosen home so you buy the most home for your dollar…the very same way we described earlier…

 

  • Negotiate the best possible deal for you so you avoid costly traps and pitfalls…

 

  • Help you locate the most affordable financing in the market and for your situation…

 

  • Coordinate all inspections, appraisals, escrow and title services, with the very best firms, so you can feel confident and focus on other important tasks during your move…

 

  • We will attend all structural and mechanical inspections and walkthroughs with you, because we know what to look for and know what is acceptable and unacceptable.

 

  • Because of our experience, we’ll make the entire process as HASSLE FREE as possible for you.

 

  • Everything you do with our Firm stays COMPLETELY CONFIDENTIAL.  No one will be discussing your personal or confidential affairs.

 

  • FREE BONUS:  FREE CREDIT REPORT – a $50 value.  If you call before the expiration date on the enclosed coupon, you’ll get a Free Initial Confidential Credit Report.  Get the most home for your dollar, become updated on your credit status, and obtain the best financing for your next home…

 

            On the last page, we’ve included a special “Buyer’s Coupon”, to help you get started. It gives you a FREE “Initial Credit Report”, paid for by our company.

 

So call us anytime, Toll-Free, at (877) 372-2252, or on our local line: (704) 372-2252 and we’ll immediately arrange a convenient time to meet with you to discuss your particular needs and to help you get started on our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program.  It’s FREE, and we absolutely guarantee your satisfaction! If you are out of our area and know someone moving to North or South Carolina, and you like what you have seen in this report, please refer us to your friends and family so we can protect them! And if you need a referral for a great Buyer’s Agent in your area, just contact us and we’ll help you find the best ones!

Happy House Hunting!

 

Copyright © 2014 New Home Buyers Brokers, Inc. / Realty Pros

 

 

P.S.  Once you have read this report completely, make a list of areas you would like to discuss, and call us at 704-372-2252 and speak to one of our Buyer’s Agents to enroll in our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program.  We’re confident that we’ll help you find the right home, at the right price, and save you thousands in the process. So call now! What do you have to lose?!?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Home Buyers Brokers

Preferred BUYER Coupon

 

Find Your Perfect Home At The Right Price, Save Thousands When Buying, Locate Affordable Financing, And Get A FREE  CONFIDENTIAL CREDIT REPORT!

 

Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program

COUPON

The bearer of this coupon is entitled receive the services of my Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program. My Preferred Buyers Program Includes…

  • Free Subscription to my “Home Locator” program.  I’ll create a custom search model based on your personal home needs.  Then enter you into our Home Search system where our computers will sift through the market each night to find hidden bargains and new listings before anyone else…
  • Evaluate the value of your chosen home so you buy the most home for your dollar…
  • Negotiate the best possible deal for you so you avoid costly traps and pitfalls…
  • Help you locate the most affordable financing in the market and for your situation…
  • Coordinate all inspections, appraisals, escrow and title services, with the very best firms, so you can feel confident and focus on other important tasks during your move…
  • FREE BONUS ! :  FREE CREDIT REPORT – a $50 value.  If you call before the expiration date, you’ll get a Free confidential, In-Line credit report.  Get the most home for your dollar, become updated on your credit status, and obtain the best financing for your next home…

But Hurry!  This coupon expires __________________.

New Home Buyers Brokers  704-372-2252  or,  Call Toll-Free: 1-877-372-2252

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Special Home Buyers Report…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8 Secrets For Saving Thousands

When Finding, Buying And Financing Your Next Home

 

Copyright,   New Home Buyers Brokers 1999

 

 

 

 

 

 

You’ve Worked Too Hard For Your

Money To Needlessly Give It Away.

 

 

Here’s A Helpful Guide For Buying

The Right Home, At The Right Price

And Getting The Right Financing.

 

 

“You Don’t Make Money When You Sell Real Estate,

You Make Money When You BUY It!”

 

 

 

Dear Home Buyer,

 

Do you see the statement above?  Someone once told me it was written backwards…that you only make money when you SELL real estate.  “How on earth could you make money when you buy it?” he said.

 

But that statement IS accurate.  You see, you might receive your sales proceeds when you sell your home, but it’s how well you BOUGHT your home that will determine HOW MUCH your proceeds will be.

 

But the story doesn’t end there.  Finding the right home, and making a prudent financial investment is more involved than just “buying right.”  You also need to FINANCE it right.

 

Even Experienced Homeowners Make Costly Mistakes

When Buying And Financing Their Home

 

Hi, our company’s name is “New Home Buyers Brokers”. You can tell from our name that we specialize in Buyer Representation- and we are committed to helping people buy the right home at the right price…AND with the right financing.

 

It’s no surprise that borrowing $100,000…$200,000 or more is a lot of money.  And how to FIND the right home…how much to PAY for the home…how much to BORROW…and on what FINANCIAL TERMS can literally mean tens of thousands of dollars MORE or LESS in your pocket!

 

If you’re like most people, the decision to buy a home involves a number of stresses and strains.  For about 80% of buyers, it’s the single largest financial transaction of their lives.  Mistakes in any part of the buying process can cost you thousands.

 

That’s why we wrote this special report…to give you a number of helpful, straightforward tips for finding a home that meets your needs, AND becomes a wise financial investment for you in the future.

 

Here are 8 strategies (we call them “secrets” because so many home buyers disregard them when buying) you should consider when buying your next home…

 

Secret #1:  Understand What You NEED In Your Next Home.

 

Two things you need to consider here: Your NEEDS…and your WANTS.  They’re two very different things.

 

You may need 4 bedrooms because of your children, or need a 3 car garage because of your 3 cars…

 

What you’ll find is your needs are fairly basic.  It’s the “wants” that take a little more time to clarify.  Here is a list of needs you should consider BEFORE looking for your home:

 

  1. General price range of home – we’ll cover this fully when discussing financing options and the amount of home you can afford (or the amount you want to spend for your monthly mortgage payment).
  2. Time frame (ideally when you’ll want to move in- for example, after Christmas, or when your lease term expires, etc.)
  3. Approximate size of home (in sq. footage) – make a reasonable range
  4. General location, area, or subdivision (30 miles to work, North Charlotte, etc.)
  5. Number of bedrooms required (don’t forget to include any home offices or guest rooms).
  6. Number of bathrooms you’ll need
  7. Style and layout of home: Do you want a more formal plan, or a Transitional plan? (ie, the Master down, a large Great Room, a Ranch floorplan, etc.)
  8. School requirements or districts
  9. Builder Inventory home, To-Be-Built, or Existing homes? How many years old?

 

Secret #2: Understand What You WANT In Your Next Home.

 

A great way to get a handle on your wants is to take a good look at your present home.  What do you like about it?  Do you like its open floor plan?  Do you like the kitchen and eating areas?  Do you like the bathroom layout?

 

List out everything you like about your present home, or homes you’ve visited.

 

Now, let’s take a look at what you don’t like about your home.  Do you hate the small closets?  Do you want the Master bedroom upstairs?  Are the bedrooms too small?  Is the kitchen too far from the garage? Do you need more closets or storage space?

 

If you dislike something with your present home, you’re going to dislike it with your new home.  So the better you can identify these items, the more likely you are to avoid them.

 

Here’s a good suggestion: Take out a piece of paper and draw a vertical line down the middle.  In the left column, write down everything you like about your present home.  In the right column, write down everything you dislike about your present home.  It’s also important you understand WHY you dislike something.

 

Now, from your list of “likes,” let’s compile a list of features you want for your new home.  Now, here’s an important tip that will help you really narrow your focus.

 

Take out another sheet of paper and put two columns on it.  On the left hand side, you will be listing out the features of your home.  And on the right hand side, you’ll be listing out the benefits. For each feature, you want to list the benefit of that feature.

 

Features tell you what something IS: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, 3 car garage, etc.  Benefits tell you what something DOES.  Benefits fulfill desires.

 

For example, a great room concept (feature) will be ideal for entertaining friends and family at special times (benefit).  So on the left hand side, you would put “great room..”  And on the right hand side, list out all the benefits (or reasons) for the “great room” design: Family entertaining, business entertaining, Thanksgiving holidays with the family, etc.

 

Understand What Each Other Is Looking For, And WHY

 

If you’re a husband and wife looking for a home, this exercise will eliminate many disagreements down the road.  You will both understand what the other wants, and WHY they want it.

 

We recommend you RANK each feature in terms of its importance to you and your spouse.  You’re both going to live in the home, so you better understand what the other is looking for.

 

For example, a well designed gourmet kitchen (remember, list ALL the features of the kitchen you’re looking for) may rank high with a woman, while having a workshop may rank high with a man.  Try to understand each other’s priorities.

 

Most People Have More Dreams Than Money

 

Ranking will also show you areas you may need to eliminate because of price constraints.  And by having each person rank the importance of the features they want, you won’t be eliminating a high priority item and putting additional stress on an already stressful time.

 

Secret #3:  Understand How Much Home You Can Afford.

 

            Like it or not, there are 2 guidelines bankers and mortgage lenders use to determine how much loan you can afford.

 

The first guideline is the Payment To Income Ratio.  This guideline compares your income – or your total household income – to the amount of mortgage payment you’re considering.  (We specialize in “buyer’s finance”, and can help you with this if this seems too confusing).

 

To calculate the “payment” part of the formula, the lender will take the mortgage payment (principal + interest) and add to it Property Taxes and Insurance. Hence the term “PITI” (principal, interest, taxes, and insurance).

 

Usually lenders will loan up to 28 % of your total household income.

 

But before you think you’re home free, there’s something else you need to know…

 

It’s called the Debt To Income Ratio.  Debt refers to ALL the major monthly payments other than your mortgage payment (PITI).  To arrive at this amount, the lender will consider…

 

Your car payment…

Your credit card debt and payments…

Any IRS liens or payments due…

Any other payments and debts you have (boat, 2nd home, etc.)

 

Then, they’ll compare your total debt to your ability to make current payments with your new home loan added into the equation.

 

Now, here’s the “stickler.”  Each mortgage company sets different limits on your Debt To Income ratio.  Which is why it’s critically important to find a MOTIVATED LENDER.

 

Don’t follow the “canned” financial advice like you see on TV.  Most of that advice is “rule of thumb,” and designed for the lowest credit rating and highest interest rates.

 

Think about this…

 

If you spend 2 or 3 days to find a loan that saves you $40,000 to $150,000 over its term, your time is WELL SPENT!  Doing a little homework on your own will literally save you thousands over the term of your loan. We will only refer you to people who are the best in the business. These are professionals that we have personally used countless times in the past- and they know to treat our customers like GOLD. They will give you the best rates, a free Pre-Qualification, and will not “screw you over”. Because we trust them and know how good they are, we’ll even pay for your initial credit report

(called an “In-File”  in the mortgage business).

 

Secret #4:  Save A Bundle When Financing.

 

Your ability to afford a home will be related to a number of items.  They are…

 

  1. The PRICE of the home;
  2. Your DOWN PAYMENT on your home, and thus the amount financed;
  3. The INTEREST RATE and POINTS of your loan – the amount a bank charges you for the money;
  4. The TERM of your loan: 10 year, 15 year, 30 year.
  5. The overall TYPE of your loan: Most common is fixed vs. variable (or, ARM ) rates. There are literally hundreds of new loan packages to choose from. Some help you with your down payment (0 % down programs are available for those who are cash-strapped but have excellent credit), some save you money on PMI ( Private Mortgage Insurance, which everyone has to pay if you put down less than 20 %), some let you keep more money in your pockets as a shield against taxation, and some are backed by the Government (FHA and VA loans). We’ll help you through the maze of programs and help you narrow down exactly which plan works best for your budget and lifestyle.

 

And just in case you were looking for a specific “rule of thumb,” for financing your home, you should know that…

 

There Are NO General Rules Of Thumb About Financing Your Home!

 

Each case is different, and your personal financial circumstances will have an impact on how much home you can afford.

 

However, you MUST understand the relationship and impact interest rates, term of loan, points, and type of loan can have on your overall financial picture.

 

Let’s start with the “amount financed” first.  Many people often pay cash or put 20% or more down as equity.  The reasons they do this are…

 

“The bank required us to…”

            “We’ve just always put down this amount…”

            “We wanted a lower payment.”

 

Problem is, these reasons could cost you thousands of dollars.

 

The answer for how much you can put down on your home is different for most people.  However, we have learned over time that…

 

Many People Put Down More Cash On Their Home Than They Need To,

And Could Have Received A Better Return On Investment Had

They Invested The Money Instead Of Putting It Into Their Home

Here’s a simple and fast way to “ballpark” the actual annual return on investment you get from the money you put down on your home:

 

  1. Take a look at the homes in the area you’re considering.  How much have the homes appreciated, each year on average, over the past 5 years?  For example, you might find that values have increased an average of 5 % a year. ( We‘ll help you figure this out by performing a CMA (Comparitive Market Analysis) for you. Charlotte’s average for NEW homes right now is a PHENOMENAL 14.9 %! Compare that to the stock market, but don’t forget to add in your tax savings, too- and, remember that this return is with NO RISK!

 

  1. Now, take the total cost of your new home, multiply that value times 14.9 % (the average expected annual appreciation of a new home).  For example, a $150,000 home, increasing in value at 14.9 % the first year.  Thus, the home could be worth $22,350 more a year from now! WOW!

 

  1. Now, divide the amount of increase in your home ($2,250 in the example) by the total amount of Down Payment you put into the home.  For example, if you put down 20% (or $30,000), then $2,250/$30,000 = 7.5%.

 

Now 7.5% sounds like a fair investment.  But the question you need to ask is this: Can you make more than 7.5% elsewhere?

 

And did you notice something else here?  Had you put down just $15,000, your return on your Down Payment would be 15%!

 

The moral of the story:  Putting more money into your home may make your banker happy, because it lowers the risk of getting his money out if you default. That’s why they require “PMI” (legislation is currently pending to require lenders to eliminate this coverage altogether, if your loan meets certain criteria).

 

Putting down more money may make your overall payment a little lower…

 

But it may be a wiser decision to put less into your home, IF you can locate an alternate investment that will pay greater interest on your hard-earned equity. *Trick of the trade: If you still want to put more money down, the best place to do it is to buy down the interest rate, instead of increasing your down payment. Ask us, and we’ll show you how it decreases your mortgage payment even more this way…

 

Now, let’s shift gears a little and talk about the impact Term and Interest rate will have on your overall financial picture…

 

 

How INTEREST RATE and TERM can make or COST you thousands.

 

Mortgage lenders toss around interest rate numbers as if they didn’t matter.

 

They DO!

 

And to illustrate the impact interest rates can have on your overall financial picture, we’ve presented a table below showing the interest you pay over the term of a 30 year, $150,000 loan at 8%, 7% and 6%.

 

And here’s the clincher: Just ONE percentage point on a $150,000 loan can cost you almost $37,000 over the term of the loan!  TWO percentage points will cost you over $72,000!!

 

Your banker might tell you his “slightly higher rate” is only a matter of $103 a month in payment.  But YOU should know better!  Take a look at the table below…

 

Loan Amount

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

Interest Rate

 

8%

 

7%

 

6%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$1,101

 

$998

 

$899

Interest Paid

 

$246,233

 

$209,263

 

$173,757

Savings

 

 

$36,970

 

$72,476

 

That’s money taken out of your pocket if you don’t look for good rates!

 

And if you think interest rate has an impact on your overall financial picture, take a look at what modifying the TERM of your loan can do…

 

Here’s another example of a $150,000 loan at 7% interest.  But this time, we examine the total interest paid when you select a 30 year vs. a 15 year vs. a 10 year amortization…

 

Term

 

30 Year

 

15 Year

 

10 Year

Interest Rate

 

7%

 

7%

 

7%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$998

 

$1,348

 

$1,742

Interest Paid

 

$209,280

 

$92,640

 

$59,040

Savings

 

 

$116,640

 

$150,240

 

The “bottom line”?  Estimate the maximum amount of payment you can afford, and adjust TERM and INTEREST RATE of your loan to minimize the amount of total interest you’ll pay (You can also go to our website, www.NewHomesNC.com, for an amortization schedule and to get payment/mortgage calculations for varying interest rates).

 

But then your banker cuts in and says, “but the interest you pay is Tax Deductible…”   you should know this:  If you’re in the 28% tax bracket, for every dollar in interest you pay, you only save 28 cents.  Don’t go spending a dollar to save 28 cents if you can help it!

 

Here’s How To Instantly Know How Many Points You Should Pay…

 

Another consideration in the formula is the amount of POINTS your lender will charge you to initiate your loan.  And what you’ll notice is there’s a GAME being played with you.

 

And if you don’t know the rules of the game, YOU LOSE!

 

Sitting across from a banker while he throws obscure numbers at you like you’re a human dartboard can be pretty overwhelming.  And frequently you’ll hear terms like “7.5% with 1.5 points,” or “7.25 with 1 point.”

 

All-the-while you’re thinking to yourself, “I have no idea what the financial impact of this guy’s blabbering means to me.”  And quite frankly, your banker knows…

 

The Less You Know About What You’re Paying The Better For HIM!

 

So hopefully this little “ballpark” example will help you quickly determine the best points-to-interest rate for you.  How many points should you pay, and what formula is best for you?  Here’s a little help…

 

If a banker is giving you several options of interest rates and points, you need to sort out the financial consequences so you don’t lose money.  Say, for example, you were considering 2 loans.  Both are for $150,000, and both are 30 year amortization.

 

DEAL #1: One loan he offers you is 7.5% with 0 points for origination…

DEAL #2: Another loan he offers you is 7%, but he wants 2 points to originate the loan. NOTE: Each “point” is worth 1% of the loan amount- for example, on a $100,000 loan, 1 point would be equal to $1000.00

What’s the ONE factor that will determine which loan is better?

 

How LONG You Keep The Loan!

 

The first thing you need to think about is how long you’re going to live in that home.  The average homeowner spends about 5.5 years in their home before selling for whatever reason.

 

So, for example sake, let’s say you plan to live in the home 5 years.  Here’s how you determine which deal is better…

 

  1. Take the difference in monthly payments (principal and interest only) of EACH loan…
  2. Multiply that amount by 12 months to get the annual amount of difference…
  3. DIVIDE that amount into the $$ amount of points you pay to determine the number of years at which you recover the points paid up front.  If the number of years is LESS than your anticipated time in your home, you’ll be better off paying the points and getting the lower rate.  If it’s higher than you plan to spend in the home, opt for the lower points.

 

 

 

Here’s an Example…

 

Loan

 

#1, $150,000

 

#2, $150,000

 

Points

 

0

 

2.5

$$ Points

 

$0

 

$3,750

Interest Rate

 

7.5%

 

7.0%

 

  1. Payment

 

$1,049

 

$998

 

 

  1. The difference in monthly payments is $51 a month ($1049 – $998 = $51).
  2. $51 X 12 months is a savings on (approximate) interest of $612 per year.
  3. Total Cost Of Points divided by $612 is 6.13 years ($3,750/$612 = 6.13).

The result?  If you stay in your home for 5 years, you will NOT recoup the points you paid up front with the savings in a lower interest rate.  Recoup time is about 6 years and 2 months to breakeven.

 

So your best bet would be to select loan #1.

 

If, however, you planned to keep your home beyond 6 years and 2 months, you’d be better off with loan #2 (i.e. the overall savings in interest rate will exceed the amount you paid in points – not considering the time value of money).

 

Are you starting to see how important it is to understand your home’s financing?  How important it is to shop for the best rates, terms, and points?

 

Good!  Now, let’s move on to another important secret for buying your home…

 

Secret #5: How You Evaluate Homes Will Save You Thousands And Heartaches!

 

One of the biggest mistakes people make when buying homes is they rely solely on “local neighborhood market analysis information” to determine the right price to pay for a home.

 

Before you buy or refinance your next home, INSIST on seeing a “total market overview” of exactly what is going on in the ENTIRE market.  Then narrow your analysis to local market information. This is especially important when looking at existing homes.

 

Why do we say this?  Because you want to know 2 things: 1) What is the ENTIRE market doing with values?  Are they going up?  And by how much?  2) What is the specific area & neighborhood doing with market values?  How does it compare to what the total market is doing?  Are the growth rates the same, lower, or higher than the overall market?

 

Understanding these parameters will save you thousands of dollars when you make an offer on a home.  We’re frequently asked to perform both of these analysis for our buyers, so they know EXACTLY what they’re buying!

 

If you are looking at only New Homes, we’ll help you compare FEATURE to FEATURE what each Builder is giving you for your money. How do the options stack up in the real world? Which Builder is truly giving you more house for your money, and which one is ripping you off? We’ve spent a collective total of 16 years working directly for National builders, doing comparisons on construction quality and optional features. We know how to take all of the hype and help you get down to the “nitty-gritty”- what’s really important, and what they’re NOT telling you that can lose you, literally, thousands of dollars. They all say they’re the best- but which Builders really put their money where their mouth is ???

 

OK, so let’s say you’re now pre-qualified with financing, and you’ve also found a number of homes, whether new or existing, to preview.

 

The Way You Inspect A Home For Sale Can Save You Enormous Amounts Of Money And Time

 

It’s now time to find not only a home that fits your needs, but a home that will be a good investment.  What are some of the things you should look for?

 

Well, one of the first things we pay attention to is what we call “siting.”  Siting involves evaluating 3 areas:  Location, Lot siting, and Home siting.

 

The general location of the home you’re considering could determine how happy you’ll be living there, and what kind of an investment you’ll have when you re-sell down the line. Here’s an important tip that will almost always make you money…

 

Buy The Midrange Home In The Best Neighborhood You Can Afford

 

Why do we say this?  Because the better the neighborhood, the better the appreciation for you over time.  And if you buy the midrange home, the home will “generally” appreciate faster and greater than a higher priced home in the same area.

 

Plus, you will most certainly spend money updating or decorating your new home, and you don’t want to get “upside down” on your homes value after spending money for improvements. So remember…

 

NEVER Buy The Top Of The Market!

 

Now the second area you need to consider is Lot siting. Lot siting has to do with WHERE your particular lot is located in the subdivision you’re considering.  We’ll ask  for a plat map of the entire subdivision.  Then we’ll take a look at where your home site is located in the subdivision.

 

Is it near a common area?  Does it capture better views than other lots in the area?  Is it more private, or shaped better than other lots?  Is it near a loud street?  Are there lots of trees at the rear? How close is the playground, pool, or tennis courts?

 

Lot “siting” in a neighborhood will give you a basis for knowing how well the home will appreciate vs. other homes in the neighborhood (assuming the home price is reasonable).

 

Finally, you want to look at the Home siting.  How well did the builder take advantage of all the amenities the LOT offers a home?  Are the views great?  How’s the curb appeal?  Is there a balance between front and back yards?  Do you see any drainage problems because of where the home has been located on the lot? Is there any standing water in the swales? For how long? What does the builder’s warranty specify about their “tolerances”? Did they save the trees around the home site?

 

When looking at home sites in a new neighborhood, where the landscape is basically untouched, we will consider other things as well: Crawl foundation or Slab? Will the home be built standard, or reverse (with the garage on the left side?) If the home is built reverse plan because of the home site, how does that effect how you’ll live in the house? Will the Master Bedroom still be by the private treed area, or looking into the neighbor’s kitchen? (Reverse plan is like taking a “mirror-image” of the home and “flipping” it, to maximize drainage, elevations of the site, or to work with the natural flow of the landscape). We’ll explore these things, and more, when looking over home sites and reading the blueprints and plot plans and topo maps.

 

Think through these things as you visit each home.

 

Now, as you approach your home, there are other things you want to keep in mind…

 

  1. What is your initial reaction of the home (or home site) as you approach it from the street?  This is called “curb appeal,” and it has a great impact on the value of the home.  Is the home sited right on the lot?  Notice the areas around the home.  Are they well maintained?  Is the landscaping groomed?  After excavating, clearing and grading the home site, what will it look like? Which trees will remain? What will the slope of the driveway or rear yard be like?

 

  1. Take a look at the structure of the home.  As you go through the home, windows and doors should be square, and they should close correctly.  Look around windows and doors for cracks.  Check corners of rooms for sloping or tile/wood cracks.  These may reveal foundation or water problems.

 

  1. Now think about the floor plan of the home.  Is it functional?  Do the common areas flow the way you want them to?  Are the halls narrow and long, or are they open?  How far will you have to carry the groceries from the garage?  Are the rooms the right size and height for your desires?  If there have been any additions, were they done professionally?  Do they fit with the flow and style of the home?

 

  1. Now, check the roof and ceilings.  Is the roof the type you prefer?  Is it in good condition? Who was the manufacturer? When was the last time the home was roofed? What is the warranty on the roof, and how long does the warranty have before it expires? Is it already double-layered, or can an existing layer be put on top of the existing roof?

 

  1. Now make a basic check of the plumbing, mechanical, and electrical systems.  Do drains and toilets work correctly?  Is the property connected to sewer, or will you have to deal with a septic system?  Is the electrical wiring up to code?  And are the mechanical systems working properly? On existing homes, make sure you get these systems inspected by a licensed contractor or inspector BEFORE you close any deals! We have referrals for professional companies that we use all of the time who will go through the home with a fine-toothed comb. They will check for potential structural, mechanical and cosmetic problems. They’ll also perform a termite inspection, along with checking for infestation of other insects or rodents.

 

  1. With new homes, each and every phase of construction passes vigorous tests by licensed engineers and Inspectors from Mecklenburg County or the ruling principality. This includes a foundation check, framing member check, plumbing, HVAC, windows and doors, electrical, roof, siding, etc. The Builder must pass all inspections in order to get a “C-O”, or Certificate of Occupancy. They cannot close on the home until it has been rigorously inspected and re-inspected, and it has come with a shining recommendation. However, Inspectors are all different, with varying degrees of what they consider “normal”. And FHA and VA Inspectors and Appraisers are a different deal altogether. We’ll help make sure that everything is being done the right way to make sure that the Builder delivers you the best quality home that they could have. We want YOU to have the BEST QUALITY HOME in the neighborhood!

 

 

Secret #6:  Save Thousands Writing Your Offer And Negotiating Your Deal

 

Years ago a real estate expert told me that the party who is less motivated almost always gets the better deal.  The ONE single element that will determine how well you negotiate your offer is…

 

How MOTIVATED Is The Seller, And How MOTIVATED Are YOU?

If the home has been on the market for over a year, perhaps it’s because the seller hasn’t been motivated enough to sell. Or perhaps the home hasn’t sold and he/she is very motivated.

 

And if you’ve been looking for 4 months, your kids are late for starting school this year because you haven’t found a home yet, and you now have found the right home, YOU may be very motivated to buy!

 

Nevertheless, here’s a tip you MUST bring to any real estate transaction…

 

 

Move Heaven And Earth To AVOID Emotional Attachment To The Home You’re Considering

 

If you’re all giddy about the home, and if you can’t hold back your emotions when you’re around the home, then you’re potentially going to get clobbered when negotiating the purchase.

 

And that’s ONE reason why you need a Buyer’s Agent representing you during any transaction.  The middle person alone will help save you money.

 

So let’s say you have an Agent representing you (make sure it’s a Buyer’s Agent, or you could lose a bundle!), and you’re ready to write an offer.

 

What’s the single best piece of information you can have?

 

It’s the comparable sales and market data for the entire market, and the area.  Ask your Buyer’s Agent to print out both for you to use.  Now, here’s what you want to do…

 

You want to take a look at 4 important “market tell-tale signs:”

 

  1. Take a look at the currently active (for sale) listings in the area.  Is the home you’re considering priced within reason to the other homes?   If so, you know you’re at a reasonable starting point.

 

  1. Now, take a look at what the average selling price is compared to the listing price.  You may notice that most homes are selling for about 2 to 3 percent less than their offer price.  If that’s the case, you know the original offers were LESS than this amount.  Take this into consideration when making your offer. And leave plenty of room for negotiating other details.

 

  1. Now, make sure you visit several of the other listings in the area.  How does your home compare to the other homes?  Is the home you’re considering in similar shape?  Is it on a nicer home site ?  Is it bigger, smaller, better style, better landscaping, etc.?  These factors will help you determine how much you should pay for your home vs. how much others paid for similar homes in the neighborhood.

 

  1. Now, take a look at the average market times for homes in the area.  If they’re long (evaluated on a market by market basis), the market may be soft, and you might have more negotiating room with your offer.

 

  1. If it’s a New Home, how many have they sold in the last month? The last year? Now, compare them with their competition. Does one neighborhood or Builder have a faster pace of sales? Why? Have they offered special incentives to past homeowners that they are not offering to you? Does one neighborhood have a pool or amenity that the other one doesn’t have? How much have their prices gone up since they’ve opened? When and Why? What is their estimated Build-Out time? Are they ahead of or behind pace with the Developer’s “take-down” plans? What has affected the change?

 

You’re now ready to make your offer.  At this point, I highly recommend you work closely with a Buyer’s Agent to structure your offer.  They will talk about strategies such as 1) should you offer a high price and ask the owner to throw in all kinds of extras, or 2) offer a low price and skim your way into the neighborhood?

 

The correct answer depends on your personal situation.  And you need to work closely with your Buyer’s Agent to strategize your offer.

 

 

 

Secret #7:  Be Financially Prepared – Ahead Of Time!

 

Many people go about the home finding process backwards.  They go through the entire process of searching, evaluating, and writing an offer on their home, WITHOUT being financially prepared.

 

And it usually costs them money.  Big money!

 

Doing a few things up front, BEFORE you go searching will save you a lot of money, time, and hassles. What are those things?

 

Here are 3 of them.

 

First, find a MOTIVATED, INDEPENDENT lender.  We’ll help you find a perfect one. No, don’t just go down to your local bank where you’ll likely to be slowly tortured by a loan officer who makes his bonuses and gets promoted according to how much paperwork he creates (at YOUR expense), how many overrides he charges, and how many DECLINES he produced.

 

You see, the only quota a banker has to live by is: “How many BAD loans did you originate?”  Plus, they get paid bonuses and overrides based on how much money they charge you, and by how much money they make the bank. Whatever they make over their “in-house” rate, they get to keep as a BONUS. So, if their “in-house” interest rate is 6%, and they charge YOU 6.5%, they keep the other .05 % as a bonus. The loan origination fee goes to the bank as their payment for services rendered, but the BONUS is theirs to pocket.

 

They don’t get measured by their production…

 

They don’t get measured by their service…

 

They only get measured by the MISTAKES THEY AVOID!

 

Now, we figure if your local banker sees this, he’s going to start reciting all the ad campaign jargon most banks are spouting these days.  But the truth is…

 

There Is Absolutely NO Incentive For A Traditional Banker To Serve Your Interests In Any Way

 

What you want to do is find a mortgage lender who is MOTIVATED to take your loan. One who represents many different products, and can offer you many options for making your loan most affordable.

 

Here’s an important tip: Ask your Buyer’s Agent to refer one or two lenders to you. Why? Realtors have power over lenders, because they send them lots of clients.  It’s not just YOU alone talking to them, with one loan.  It’s their future business looking them square in the face, too. And we send them hundreds of loans a year!

 

If they don’t give you first class service, the Buyer’s Agent who referred you will send (ALL) of their clients to someone else.  So they’re motivated to SERVE YOU.  And the minute you have a problem with your loan, you can turn to your Buyer’s Agent…who has much more influence and leverage over the lender than you alone.

 

After all, your Buyer’s Agent and lender both want to see the transaction close.  There’s power in numbers and influence.  Use it to your advantage.

Now, the second thing you want to do is GET PRE-QUALIFIED with a lender.  Better yet, try to get PRE-APPROVED.

 

Why?

Because the first question any home seller will ask when an offer is presented is “Is your buyer approved for a mortgage?

 

And rightfully so!  The seller doesn’t want the deal to fall through because you couldn’t get financing.  When the seller accepts your offer, their home comes OFF the active market. If you fall through, it costs them time and money. Most Builder’s average interest payments on completed homes is $ 1300.00  PER HOME, PER MONTH. No kidding. And, if it’s an Inventory home you’re looking at, it will help us to know how long it has been sitting since it was ready to close, so we can get you the best deal!

 

Plus, there’s one more reason to get pre-qualified or approved…

 

You Will Have Much More Power To Negotiate

Price And Terms When You’re Financially Qualified!

 

When you have money behind you, the seller knows you are serious.  And a serious buyer ALWAYS has more influence to negotiate.  So do yourself a favor, GET PRE-QUALIFIED or, better yet, PRE-APPROVED!

 

Secret #8:  Use A BUYERS Agent!

 

There’s a huge difference between a Buyer’s Agent and other agents. First and foremost, if you don’t have a specific agreement to be represented by your agent…

Chances Are, YOUR Agent Represents The SELLER!

 

Yes, it’s true.  And the question you have to ask yourself is… “Is this person going to represent MY interests?”  And ALL Builder Representatives are SELLER’S AGENTS.

 

Think about this: If you had to go to court, would you use the same attorney the opposing side was using?  When building a home, who does the Builder Sales Rep. answer to? To you, or to their Boss?

 

I think you know the answer!  But did you know that by creating a “buyers representation” with your agent, you not only get someone representing you, but…

 

  • A Buyer’s representative doesn’t cost you a nickel more than any other agent.  Even though they legally and plainly represent you, they’re still paid out of the standard commission…by the Seller!

 

  • Buyer representation is easy to enter into, and will support ONLY your interests.  This includes finding your home, helping with financing, and negotiating the best possible deal for YOU…

 

  • A Buyer’s representative will keep everything about you and your deal CONFIDENTIAL!

 

OK, so you know the difference between any agent and a “Buyer’s Agent.”  But did you know what a really good Buyer’s Agent can do for you?

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent knows the area you want to buy in because he/she is out constantly looking at homes and knows what’s available on the market…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent can spot trouble for you.  He or she will be experienced at looking at homes and will see things you might not see.

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will greatly simplify the buying process…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will give you MOTIVATED, reliable financing sources and options…

 

  • A good Buyer’s Agent will refer you to proven inspectors, attorneys, title and escrow officers, lenders who specialize in different types of credit situations, and other service providers you’ll need.

 

Most importantly, you need to know that…

 

 

There Are “Real Estate Agents”…

And Then There Are Committed Professionals.

Which One Do YOU Want Representing Your Interests?

 

We hope the information above has given you helpful advice for helping you find, buy and finance your next home.

 

At this point, you’re probably pretty clear that, in order to find the right home and save money, you need someone competent and professional to represent only YOUR interests.

 

We started this company because we came to realize that the majority of Home Buyer’s needs were not being met, while the “Seller” held all of the cards. Home Buyers had no one to turn to for advice and help, or to voice their valid concerns. In fact, that is why we wrote this special report, and structured our practice around giving Home Buyers the competitive edge- along with the most competent service possible.

 

We help clients like you every day. We have cell phones, voice-mail and digital pagers, 4 phone lines, an E-mail address, a web page, and a toll-free number. You can always get through to us if you have a question or need assistance. And if we’re busy with another client, there’s a million ways to leave us a message- and we will get back to you as soon as possible. We’re a small, tight-knit, highly dedicated office. You will never be “just a number” to us, and you’ll never feel ignored. We want you to be experts, too! Our business is built by referrals of satisfied customers, ONE client at a time.

 

There’s a difference between agents who simply sell real estate, and those who COMMIT to doing whatever it takes to serve a clients beyond their expectations. We’ve been in real estate working on behalf of buyers and sellers for a long time. But more importantly, we have the knowledge and experience to make the whole process work like a finely-tuned machine.

 

We make it a priority to educate you on every aspect of buying the best home for your hard-earned money in your preferred area.  We have a long list of satisfied past clients and professional references whom you may call at any time to discuss the quality of our service and our follow-up.

 

We guarantee everything we do for you in writing.  This places the burden of risk and performance on US, not you.  We also have references to reputable people in mortgage lending, appraisals, title and escrow companies, tax specialists, attorneys, and even decorators.  These are people we have used in other transactions, and we trust them to take care of our clients like gold.

 

Each day, we speak with hundreds of people directly related to buying or selling real estate.  And we receive over 80% of our new clients through referrals and repeat business.  We want our personal marketing to involve such outstanding and exemplary service to our existing clients and personal network, that they are inclined to share our services with family and friends.

 

We’re Not Saying These Things To “Toot Our Own Horn”,

But Impress Upon You The Difference Between Just A “Real Estate Agent”

And A Competent, Dedicated Professional

 

Buying and selling real estate can be tricky business.  And making the wrong choices can cost you a lot of money, headaches, and wasted time.  Believe it or not, when we worked for Builders, we On-Site Reps used to call most Agents “Lazy Agents”! If you’ve ever had a bad or lazy Agent, you’ll know exactly what we mean. They bring in their client, and then disappear until they receive their check at the closing table. That’s why we designed a specific program designed for buyers like you.  We call it our…

 

Exclusive “Preferred Buyer Program”

Our Preferred Buyers Program is absolutely FREE to you.  Here’s what you’ll get when you enroll…

 

  • A Free Subscription to our “Home Locator” program.  We’ll create a custom search model based on your personal home needs.  Then, we’ll enter you into our Home Search system where our computers will sift through the market each night to find hidden bargains and new listings before anyone else gets them. Each day, we’ll search the homes on the market that meet your personal desires. We’ll also:

 

  • Evaluate the value of your chosen home so you buy the most home for your dollar…the very same way we described earlier…

 

  • Negotiate the best possible deal for you so you avoid costly traps and pitfalls…

 

  • Help you locate the most affordable financing in the market and for your situation…

 

  • Coordinate all inspections, appraisals, escrow and title services, with the very best firms, so you can feel confident and focus on other important tasks during your move…

 

  • We will attend all structural and mechanical inspections and walkthroughs with you, because we know what to look for and know what is acceptable and unacceptable.

 

  • Because of our experience, we’ll make the entire process as HASSLE FREE as possible for you.

 

  • Everything you do with our Firm stays COMPLETELY CONFIDENTIAL.  No one will be discussing your personal or confidential affairs.

 

  • FREE BONUS:  FREE CREDIT REPORT – a $50 value.  If you call before the expiration date on the enclosed coupon, you’ll get a Free Initial Confidential Credit Report.  Get the most home for your dollar, become updated on your credit status, and obtain the best financing for your next home…

 

But Don’t Wait!

 

When you call, we’ll give you our undivided attention. And we’ll schedule a time to meet when it’s most convenient for you.

 

            On the last page, we’ve included a special “Buyer’s Coupon”, to help you get started. It gives you a FREE “Initial Credit Report”, paid for by our company.

 

You’ll notice there’s an expiration date on the coupon. We know there’s a natural tendency to procrastinate.  To put off important decisions. But the more you procrastinate, the more pressure ultimately rests with you.

 

By Not Acting Now, You Could Open Yourself To

Losing Thousands Of Dollars

 

So call us now, Toll-Free, at (877) 372-2252, or on our local line: (704) 372-2252 and we’ll immediately arrange a convenient time to meet with you to discuss your particular needs and to help you get started on our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program.  It’s FREE, and we absolutely guarantee your satisfaction!

 

 

Sincerely yours,

 

 

New Home Buyers Brokers, Inc. / Realty Pros

 

 

P.S.  Once you have read this report completely, make a list of areas you would like to discuss, and call us at 704-372-2252 and speak to one of our Buyer’s Agents to enroll in our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program.  We’re confident that we’ll help you find the right home, at the right price, and save you thousands in the process. So call now! What do you have to lose?!?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Home Buyers Brokers

Preferred BUYER Coupon

 

Find Your Perfect Home At The Right Price, Save Thousands When Buying, Locate Affordable Financing, And Get A FREE  CONFIDENTIAL CREDIT REPORT!

 

Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program

COUPON

The bearer of this coupon is entitled receive the services of my Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program. My Preferred Buyers Program Includes…

  • Free Subscription to my “Home Locator” program.  I’ll create a custom search model based on your personal home needs.  Then enter you into our Home Search system where our computers will sift through the market each night to find hidden bargains and new listings before anyone else…
  • Evaluate the value of your chosen home so you buy the most home for your dollar…
  • Negotiate the best possible deal for you so you avoid costly traps and pitfalls…
  • Help you locate the most affordable financing in the market and for your situation…
  • Coordinate all inspections, appraisals, escrow and title services, with the very best firms, so you can feel confident and focus on other important tasks during your move…
  • FREE BONUS ! :  FREE CREDIT REPORT – a $50 value.  If you call before the expiration date, you’ll get a Free confidential, In-Line credit report.  Get the most home for your dollar, become updated on your credit status, and obtain the best financing for your next home…

But Hurry!  This coupon expires ____08/31/2014___.

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8 Secrets For Saving Thousands

When Finding, Buying And Financing Your Next Home

 

Copyright,   New Home Buyers Brokers 2014

 

 

 

 

 

 

You’ve Worked Too Hard For Your

Money To Needlessly Give It Away.

 

 

Here’s A Helpful Guide For Buying The Right Home, At The Right Price And Getting The Right Financing.

“You Don’t Make Money When You Sell Real Estate,

You Make Money When You BUY It!”

Dear Home Buyer,

Do you see the statement above?  Someone once told me it was written backwards…that you only make money when you SELL real estate.  “How on earth could you make money when you buy it?” he said.

But that statement IS accurate.  You see, you might receive your sales proceeds when you sell your home, but it’s how well you BOUGHT your home that will determine HOW MUCH your proceeds will be.

But the story doesn’t end there.  Finding the right home, and making a prudent financial investment is more involved than just “buying right.”  You also need to FINANCE it right.

Even Experienced Homeowners Make Costly Mistakes When Buying And Financing Their Home

Hi, our company’s name is “New Home Buyers Brokers”. You can tell from our name that we specialize in Buyer Representation- and we are committed to helping people buy the right home at the right price…AND with the right financing.

It’s no surprise that borrowing $100,000…$200,000 or more is a lot of money.  And how to FIND the right home…how much to PAY for the home…how much to BORROW…and on what FINANCIAL TERMS can literally mean tens of thousands of dollars MORE or LESS in your pocket!

If you’re like most people, the decision to buy a home involves a number of stresses and strains.  For about 80% of buyers, it’s the single largest financial transaction of their lives.  Mistakes in any part of the buying process can cost you thousands.

That’s why we wrote this special report…to give you a number of helpful, straightforward tips for finding a home that meets your needs, AND becomes a wise financial investment for you in the future.

Here are 8 strategies (we call them “secrets” because so many home buyers disregard them when buying) you should consider when buying your next home…

Secret #1:  Understand What You NEED In Your Next Home.

Two things you need to consider here: Your NEEDS…and your WANTS.  They’re two very different things.

You may need 4 bedrooms because of your children, or need a 3 car garage because of your 3 cars…

What you’ll find is your needs are fairly basic.  It’s the “wants” that take a little more time to clarify.  Here is a list of needs you should consider BEFORE looking for your home:

  1. General price range of home – we’ll cover this fully when discussing financing options and the amount of home you can afford (or the amount you want to spend for your monthly mortgage payment).
  2. Time frame (ideally when you’ll want to move in- for example, after Christmas, or when your lease term expires, etc.)
  3. Approximate size of home (in sq. footage) – make a reasonable range
  4. General location, area, or subdivision (30 miles to work, North Charlotte, etc.)
  5. Number of bedrooms required (don’t forget to include any home offices or guest rooms).
  6. Number of bathrooms you’ll need
  7. Style and layout of home: Do you want a more formal plan, or a Transitional plan? (ie, the Master down, a large Great Room, a Ranch floorplan, etc.)
  8. School requirements or districts
  9. Builder Inventory home, To-Be-Built, or Existing homes? How many years old?

Secret #2: Understand What You WANT In Your Next Home.

A great way to get a handle on your wants is to take a good look at your present home.  What do you like about it?  Do you like its open floor plan?  Do you like the kitchen and eating areas?  Do you like the bathroom layout?

List out everything you like about your present home, or homes you’ve visited.

Now, let’s take a look at what you don’t like about your home.  Do you hate the small closets?  Do you want the Master bedroom upstairs?  Are the bedrooms too small?  Is the kitchen too far from the garage? Do you need more closets or storage space?

If you dislike something with your present home, you’re going to dislike it with your new home.  So the better you can identify these items, the more likely you are to avoid them.

Here’s a good suggestion: Take out a piece of paper and draw a vertical line down the middle.  In the left column, write down everything you like about your present home.  In the right column, write down everything you dislike about your present home.  It’s also important you understand WHY you dislike something.

Now, from your list of “likes,” let’s compile a list of features you want for your new home.  Now, here’s an important tip that will help you really narrow your focus.

Take out another sheet of paper and put two columns on it.  On the left hand side, you will be listing out the features of your home.  And on the right hand side, you’ll be listing out the benefits. For each feature, you want to list the benefit of that feature.

Features tell you what something IS: 3 bedroom, 2 bath, 3 car garage, etc.  Benefits tell you what something DOES.  Benefits fulfill desires.

For example, a great room concept (feature) will be ideal for entertaining friends and family at special times (benefit).  So on the left hand side, you would put “great room..”  And on the right hand side, list out all the benefits (or reasons) for the “great room” design: Family entertaining, business entertaining, Thanksgiving holidays with the family, etc.

Understand What Each Other Is Looking For, And WHY

If you’re a husband and wife looking for a home, this exercise will eliminate many disagreements down the road.  You will both understand what the other wants, and WHY they want it.

We recommend you RANK each feature in terms of its importance to you and your spouse.  You’re both going to live in the home, so you better understand what the other is looking for.

For example, a well designed gourmet kitchen (remember, list ALL the features of the kitchen you’re looking for) may rank high with a woman, while having a workshop may rank high with a man.  Try to understand each other’s priorities.

Most People Have More Dreams Than Money

Ranking will also show you areas you may need to eliminate because of price constraints.  And by having each person rank the importance of the features they want, you won’t be eliminating a high priority item and putting additional stress on an already stressful time.

Secret #3:  Understand How Much Home You Can Afford.

            Like it or not, there are 2 guidelines bankers and mortgage lenders use to determine how much loan you can afford.

The first guideline is the Payment To Income Ratio.  This guideline compares your income – or your total household income – to the amount of mortgage payment you’re considering.  (We specialize in “buyer’s finance”, and can help you with this if this seems too confusing).

To calculate the “payment” part of the formula, the lender will take the mortgage payment (principal + interest) and add to it Property Taxes and Insurance. Hence the term “PITI” (principal, interest, taxes, and insurance).

Usually lenders will loan up to 28 % of your total household income.

But before you think you’re home free, there’s something else you need to know…

It’s called the Debt To Income Ratio.  Debt refers to ALL the major monthly payments other than your mortgage payment (PITI).  To arrive at this amount, the lender will consider…

Your car payment…

Your credit card debt and payments…

Any IRS liens or payments due…

Any other payments and debts you have (boat, 2nd home, etc.)

Then, they’ll compare your total debt to your ability to make current payments with your new home loan added into the equation.

Now, here’s the “stickler.”  Each mortgage company sets different limits on your Debt To Income ratio.  Which is why it’s critically important to find a MOTIVATED LENDER.

Don’t follow the “canned” financial advice like you see on TV.  Most of that advice is “rule of thumb,” and designed for the lowest credit rating and highest interest rates.

Think about this…

If you spend 2 or 3 days to find a loan that saves you $40,000 to $150,000 over its term, your time is WELL SPENT!  Doing a little homework on your own will literally save you thousands over the term of your loan. We will only refer you to people who are the best in the business. These are professionals that we have personally used countless times in the past- and they know to treat our customers like GOLD. They will give you the best rates, a free Pre-Qualification, and will not “screw you over”. Because we trust them and know how good they are, we’ll even pay for your initial credit report (called an “In-File”  in the mortgage business).

Secret #4:  Save A Bundle When Financing.

Your ability to afford a home will be related to a number of items.  They are…

  1. The PRICE of the home;
  2. Your DOWN PAYMENT on your home, and thus the amount financed;
  3. The INTEREST RATE and POINTS of your loan – the amount a bank charges you for the money;
  4. The TERM of your loan: 10 year, 15 year, 30 year.
  5. The overall TYPE of your loan: Most common is fixed vs. variable (or, ARM ) rates. There are literally hundreds of new loan packages to choose from. Some help you with your down payment (0 % down programs are available for those who are cash-strapped but have excellent credit), some save you money on PMI ( Private Mortgage Insurance, which everyone has to pay if you put down less than 20 %), some let you keep more money in your pockets as a shield against taxation, and some are backed by the Government (FHA and VA loans). We’ll help you through the maze of programs and help you narrow down exactly which plan works best for your budget and lifestyle.

And just in case you were looking for a specific “rule of thumb,” for financing your home, you should know that…

There Are NO General Rules Of Thumb About Financing Your Home!

Each case is different, and your personal financial circumstances will have an impact on how much home you can afford.

However, you MUST understand the relationship and impact interest rates, term of loan, points, and type of loan can have on your overall financial picture.

Let’s start with the “amount financed” first.  Many people often pay cash or put 20% or more down as equity.  The reasons they do this are…

“The bank required us to…”

            “We’ve just always put down this amount…”

            “We wanted a lower payment.”

Problem is, these reasons could cost you thousands of dollars.

The answer for how much you can put down on your home is different for most people.  However, we have learned over time that…

Many People Put Down More Cash On Their Home Than They Need To, And Could Have Received A Better Return On Investment Had They Invested The Money Instead Of Putting It Into Their Home

Here’s a simple and fast way to “ballpark” the actual annual return on investment you get from the money you put down on your home:

  1. Take a look at the homes in the area you’re considering.  How much have the homes appreciated, each year on average, over the past 5 years?  For example, you might find that values have increased an average of 5 % a year. ( We‘ll help you figure this out by performing a CMA (Comparitive Market Analysis) for you. Charlotte’s average for NEW homes right now is a PHENOMENAL 14.9 %! Compare that to the stock market, but don’t forget to add in your tax savings, too- and, remember that this return is with NO RISK!
  2. Now, take the total cost of your new home, multiply that value times 14.9 % (the average expected annual appreciation of a new home).  For example, a $150,000 home, increasing in value at 14.9 % the first year.  Thus, the home could be worth $22,350 more a year from now! WOW!
  3. Now, divide the amount of increase in your home ($2,250 in the example) by the total amount of Down Payment you put into the home.  For example, if you put down 20% (or $30,000), then $2,250/$30,000 = 7.5%.

Now 7.5% sounds like a fair investment.  But the question you need to ask is this: Can you make more than 7.5% elsewhere?

And did you notice something else here?  Had you put down just $15,000, your return on your Down Payment would be 15%!

The moral of the story:  Putting more money into your home may make your banker happy, because it lowers the risk of getting his money out if you default. That’s why they require “PMI” (legislation is currently pending to require lenders to eliminate this coverage altogether, if your loan meets certain criteria).

Putting down more money may make your overall payment a little lower…

But it may be a wiser decision to put less into your home, IF you can locate an alternate investment that will pay greater interest on your hard-earned equity. *Trick of the trade: If you still want to put more money down, the best place to do it is to buy down the interest rate, instead of increasing your down payment. Ask us, and we’ll show you how it decreases your mortgage payment even more this way…

Now, let’s shift gears a little and talk about the impact Term and Interest rate will have on your overall financial picture…

How INTEREST RATE and TERM can make or COST you thousands.

Mortgage lenders toss around interest rate numbers as if they didn’t matter.

They DO!

And to illustrate the impact interest rates can have on your overall financial picture, we’ve presented a table below showing the interest you pay over the term of a 30 year, $150,000 loan at 4%, 4.5% and 5%.

And here’s the clincher: Just ONE percentage point on a $150,000 loan can cost you over $31,000 over the term of the loan!  TWO percentage points will cost you over $72,000!!

Your banker might tell you his “slightly higher rate” is only a matter of less than $100 a month in payment.  But YOU should know better!  Take a look at the table below…

 

Loan Amount

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

 

$150,000

Interest Rate

 

5%

 

4.50%

 

4.0%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$805

 

$760

 

$717

Interest Paid

 

$289,800

 

$273,600

 

$258,120

 

Savings

 

 

$16,200

 

$31,680

 

 

That’s money taken out of your pocket if you don’t look for good rates!

And if you think interest rate has an impact on your overall financial picture, take a look at what modifying the TERM of your loan can

Here’s another example of a $150,000 loan at 4.50 % interest.  But this time, we examine the total interest paid when you select a 30 year vs. a 15 year vs. a 10 year amortization…

 

Term

 

30 Year

 

15 Year

 

10 Year

Interest Rate

 

4.50%

 

4%

 

5%

Monthly Pmt.

 

$760

 

$716

 

$805

Interest Paid

 

$273,600

 

$128,880

 

$96,600

Savings

 

 

$144,800

 

$177,000

 

The “bottom line”?  Estimate the maximum amount of payment you can afford, and adjust TERM and INTEREST RATE of your loan to minimize the amount of total interest you’ll pay (You can also go to our website, www.NewHomesNC.com, for an amortization schedule and to get payment/mortgage calculations for varying interest rates).

But then your banker cuts in and says, “but the interest you pay is Tax Deductible…”   you should know this:  If you’re in the 28% tax bracket, for every dollar in interest you pay, you only save 28 cents.  Don’t go spending a dollar to save 28 cents if you can help it!

Here’s How To Instantly Know How Many Points You Should Pay…

Another consideration in the formula is the amount of POINTS your lender will charge you to initiate your loan.  And what you’ll notice is there’s a GAME being played with you.

And if you don’t know the rules of the game, YOU LOSE!

Sitting across from a banker while he throws obscure numbers at you like you’re a human dartboard can be pretty overwhelming.  And frequently you’ll hear terms like “4.5% with 1.5 points,” or “4.0 with 0 points.”

All-the-while you’re thinking to yourself, “I have no idea what the financial impact of this guy’s blabbering means to me.”  And quite frankly, your banker knows…

The Less You Know About What You’re Paying, The Better For HIM!

So hopefully this little “ballpark” example will help you quickly determine the best points-to-interest rate for you.  How many points should you pay, and what formula is best for you?  Here’s a little help…

If a banker is giving you several options of interest rates and points, you need to sort out the financial consequences so you don’t lose money.  Say, for example, you were considering 2 loans.  Both are for $150,000, and both are 30 year amortization.

DEAL #1: One loan he offers you is 4.5% with 0 points for origination…

DEAL #2: Another loan he offers you is 4%, but he wants 2 points to originate the loan. NOTE: Each “point” is worth 1% of the loan amount- for example, on a $100,000 loan, 1 point would be equal to $1000.00

What’s the ONE factor that will determine which loan is better?

How LONG You Plan On Keeping The Loan and Home!

The first thing you need to think about is how long you’re going to live in that home.  The average homeowner spends about 5.5 years in their home before selling for whatever reason.

So, for example sake, let’s say you plan to live in the home 5 years.  Here’s how you determine which deal is better…

  1. Take the difference in monthly payments (principal and interest only) of EACH loan…
  2. Multiply that amount by 12 months to get the annual amount of difference…
  3. DIVIDE that amount into the $$ amount of points you pay to determine the number of years at which you recover the points paid up front.  If the number of years is LESS than your anticipated time in your home, you’ll be better off paying the points and getting the lower rate.  If it’s higher than you plan to spend in the home, opt for the lower points.

Here’s an Example…

Loan

 

#1, $150,000

 

#2, $150,000

 

 

0 Points

 

2.5

Cost of Paying Points On Loan To Bring The Interest Rate Down

$0

 

$3,750

Interest Rate

 

4.5%

 

4.0%

 

  1. Payment

 

$760

 

$717

 

 

  1. The difference in monthly payments is $43 a month ($760 – $717 = $43).
  2. $43 X 12 months is a savings on (approximate) interest of $516 per year.
  3. Total Cost Of Points divided by $516 is 7.26 years ($3,750/$516 = 7.26).

The result?  If you stay in your home for 7 years, you will NOT recoup the points you paid up front with the savings in a lower interest rate.  Recoup time is about 7 years and 3 months to breakeven.

So your best bet would be to select loan #1.

If, however, you planned to keep your home beyond 6 years and 2 months, you’d be better off with loan #2 (i.e. the overall savings in interest rate will exceed the amount you paid in points – not considering the time value of money).

Are you starting to see how important it is to understand your home’s financing?  How important it is to shop for the best rates, terms, and points?

Good!  Now, let’s move on to another important secret for buying your home…

Secret #5: How You Evaluate Homes Will Save You Thousands And Heartaches!

One of the biggest mistakes people make when buying homes is they rely solely on “local neighborhood market analysis information” to determine the right price to pay for a home.

Before you buy or refinance your next home, INSIST on seeing a “total market overview” of exactly what is going on in the ENTIRE market.  Then narrow your analysis to local market information. This is especially important when looking at existing homes.

Why do we say this?  Because you want to know 2 things: 1) What is the ENTIRE market doing with values?  Are they going up?  And by how much?  2) What is the specific area & neighborhood doing with market values?  How does it compare to what the total market is doing?  Are the growth rates the same, lower, or higher than the overall market?

Understanding these parameters will save you thousands of dollars when you make an offer on a home.  We’re frequently asked to perform both of these analysis for our buyers, so they know EXACTLY what they’re buying!

If you are looking at only New Homes, we’ll help you compare FEATURE to FEATURE what each Builder is giving you for your money. How do the options stack up in the real world? Which Builder is truly giving you more house for your money, and which one is ripping you off? We’ve spent a collective total of 16 years working directly for National builders, doing comparisons on construction quality and optional features. We know how to take all of the hype and help you get down to the “nitty-gritty”- what’s really important, and what they’re NOT telling you that can lose you, literally, thousands of dollars. They all say they’re the best- but which Builders really put their money where their mouth is ???

OK, so let’s say you’re now pre-qualified with financing, and you’ve also found a number of homes, whether new or existing, to preview.

The Way You Inspect A Home For Sale Can Save You Enormous Amounts Of Money And Time

It’s now time to find not only a home that fits your needs, but a home that will be a good investment.  What are some of the things you should look for?

Well, one of the first things we pay attention to is what we call “siting.”  Siting involves evaluating 3 areas:  Location, Lot siting, and Home siting.

The general location of the home you’re considering could determine how happy you’ll be living there, and what kind of an investment you’ll have when you re-sell down the line. Here’s an important tip that will almost always make you money…

Buy The Midrange Home In The Best Neighborhood You Can Afford

Why do we say this?  Because the better the neighborhood, the better the appreciation for you over time.  And if you buy the midrange home, the home will “generally” appreciate faster and greater than a higher priced home in the same area.

Plus, you will most certainly spend money updating or decorating your new home, and you don’t want to get “upside down” on your homes value after spending money for improvements. So remember…

NEVER Buy The Top Of The Market!

Now the second area you need to consider is Lot siting. Lot siting has to do with WHERE your particular lot is located in the subdivision you’re considering.  We’ll ask  for a plat map of the entire subdivision.  Then we’ll take a look at where your home site is located in the subdivision.

Is it near a common area?  Does it capture better views than other lots in the area?  Is it more private, or shaped better than other lots?  Is it near a loud street?  Are there lots of trees at the rear? How close is the playground, pool, or tennis courts?

Lot “siting” in a neighborhood will give you a basis for knowing how well the home will appreciate vs. other homes in the neighborhood (assuming the home price is reasonable).

Finally, you want to look at the Home siting.  How well did the builder take advantage of all the amenities the LOT offers a home?  Are the views great?  How’s the curb appeal?  Is there a balance between front and back yards?  Do you see any drainage problems because of where the home has been located on the lot? Is there any standing water in the swales? For how long? What does the builder’s warranty specify about their “tolerances”? Did they save the trees around the home site?

When looking at home sites in a new neighborhood, where the landscape is basically untouched, we will consider other things as well: Crawl foundation or Slab? Will the home be built standard, or reverse (with the garage on the left side?) If the home is built reverse plan because of the home site, how does that effect how you’ll live in the house? Will the Master Bedroom still be by the private treed area, or looking into the neighbor’s kitchen? (Reverse plan is like taking a “mirror-image” of the home and “flipping” it, to maximize drainage, elevations of the site, or to work with the natural flow of the landscape). We’ll explore these things, and more, when looking over home sites and reading the blueprints and plot plans and topo maps.

Think through these things as you visit each home.

Now, as you approach your home, there are other things you want to keep in mind…

  1. What is your initial reaction of the home (or home site) as you approach it from the street?  This is called “curb appeal,” and it has a great impact on the value of the home.  Is the home sited right on the lot?  Notice the areas around the home.  Are they well maintained?  Is the landscaping groomed?  After excavating, clearing and grading the home site, what will it look like? Which trees will remain? What will the slope of the driveway or rear yard be like?
  2. Take a look at the structure of the home.  As you go through the home, windows and doors should be square, and they should close correctly.  Look around windows and doors for cracks.  Check corners of rooms for sloping or tile/wood cracks.  These may reveal foundation or water problems.
  3. Now think about the floor plan of the home.  Is it functional?  Do the common areas flow the way you want them to?  Are the halls narrow and long, or are they open?  How far will you have to carry the groceries from the garage?  Are the rooms the right size and height for your desires?  If there have been any additions, were they done professionally?  Do they fit with the flow and style of the home?
  4. Now, check the roof and ceilings.  Is the roof the type you prefer?  Is it in good condition? Who was the manufacturer? When was the last time the home was roofed? What is the warranty on the roof, and how long does the warranty have before it expires? Is it already double-layered, or can an existing layer be put on top of the existing roof?
  5. Now make a basic check of the plumbing, mechanical, and electrical systems.  Do drains and toilets work correctly?  Is the property connected to sewer, or will you have to deal with a septic system?  Is the electrical wiring up to code?  And are the mechanical systems working properly? On existing homes, make sure you get these systems inspected by a licensed contractor or inspector BEFORE you close any deals! We have referrals for professional companies that we use all of the time who will go through the home with a fine-toothed comb. They will check for potential structural, mechanical and cosmetic problems. They’ll also perform a termite inspection, along with checking for infestation of other insects or rodents.
  6. With new homes, each and every phase of construction passes vigorous tests by licensed engineers and Inspectors from Mecklenburg County or the ruling principality. This includes a foundation check, framing member check, plumbing, HVAC, windows and doors, electrical, roof, siding, etc. The Builder must pass all inspections in order to get a “C-O”, or Certificate of Occupancy. They cannot close on the home until it has been rigorously inspected and re-inspected, and it has come with a shining recommendation. However, Inspectors are all different, with varying degrees of what they consider “normal”. And FHA and VA Inspectors and Appraisers are a different deal altogether. We’ll help make sure that everything is being done the right way to make sure that the Builder delivers you the best quality home that they could have. We want YOU to have the BEST QUALITY HOME in the neighborhood!

Secret #6:  Save Thousands Writing Your Offer And Negotiating Your Deal

Years ago a real estate expert told me that the party who is less motivated almost always gets the better deal.  The ONE single element that will determine how well you negotiate your offer is…

How MOTIVATED Is The Seller, And How MOTIVATED Are YOU?

If the home has been on the market for over a year, perhaps it’s because the seller hasn’t been motivated enough to sell. Or perhaps the home hasn’t sold and he/she is very motivated.

And if you’ve been looking for 4 months, your kids are late for starting school this year because you haven’t found a home yet, and you now have found the right home, YOU may be very motivated to buy!

Nevertheless, here’s a tip you MUST bring to any real estate transaction…

Move Heaven And Earth To AVOID Emotional Attachment

To The Home You’re Considering

If you’re all giddy about the home, and if you can’t hold back your emotions when you’re around the home, then you’re potentially going to get clobbered when negotiating the purchase.

And that’s ONE reason why you need a Buyer’s Agent representing you during any transaction.  The middle person alone will help save you money.

So let’s say you have an Agent representing you (make sure it’s a Buyer’s Agent, or you could lose a bundle!), and you’re ready to write an offer.

What’s the single best piece of information you can have?

It’s the comparable sales and market data for the entire market, and the area.  Ask your Buyer’s Agent to print out both for you to use.  Now, here’s what you want to do…

You want to take a look at 4 important “market tell-tale signs:”

  1. Take a look at the currently active (for sale) listings in the area.  Is the home you’re considering priced within reason to the other homes?   If so, you know you’re at a reasonable starting point.
  2. Now, take a look at what the average selling price is compared to the listing price.  You may notice that most homes are selling for about 2 to 3 percent less than their offer price.  If that’s the case, you know the original offers were LESS than this amount.  Take this into consideration when making your offer. And leave plenty of room for negotiating other details.
  3. Now, make sure you visit several of the other listings in the area.  How does your home compare to the other homes?  Is the home you’re considering in similar shape?  Is it on a nicer home site ?  Is it bigger, smaller, better style, better landscaping, etc.?  These factors will help you determine how much you should pay for your home vs. how much others paid for similar homes in the neighborhood.
  4. Now, take a look at the average market times for homes in the area.  If they’re long (evaluated on a market by market basis), the market may be soft, and you might have more negotiating room with your offer.
  5. If it’s a New Home, how many have they sold in the last month? The last year? Now, compare them with their competition. Does one neighborhood or Builder have a faster pace of sales? Why? Have they offered special incentives to past homeowners that they are not offering to you? Does one neighborhood have a pool or amenity that the other one doesn’t have? How much have their prices gone up since they’ve opened? When and Why? What is their estimated Build-Out time? Are they ahead of or behind pace with the Developer’s “take-down” plans? What has affected the change?

You’re now ready to make your offer.  At this point, I highly recommend you work closely with a Buyer’s Agent to structure your offer.  They will talk about strategies such as 1) should you offer a high price and ask the owner to throw in all kinds of extras, or 2) offer a low price and skim your way into the neighborhood?

The correct answer depends on your personal situation.  And you need to work closely with your Buyer’s Agent to strategize your offer.

Secret #7:  Be Financially Prepared – Ahead Of Time!

Many people go about the home finding process backwards.  They go through the entire process of searching, evaluating, and writing an offer on their home, WITHOUT being financially prepared.

And it usually costs them money.  Big money!

Doing a few things up front, BEFORE you go searching will save you a lot of money, time, and hassles. What are those things?

Here are 3 of them.

First, find a MOTIVATED lender.  We’ll help you find a perfect one. No, don’t just go down to your local bank where you’ll likely to be slowly tortured by some bureaucratic “vice president” who makes his bonuses and gets promoted according to how much paperwork he creates (at YOUR expense), how many overrides he charges, and how many DECLINES he produced.

You see, the only quota a banker has to live by is: “How many BAD loans did you originate?”  Plus, they get paid bonuses and overrides based on how much money they charge you, and by how much money they make the bank. Whatever they make over their

“in-house” rate, they get to keep as a BONUS. So, if their “in-house” interest rate is 6%, and they charge YOU 6.5%, they keep the other .05 % as a bonus. The loan origination fee goes to the bank as their payment for services rendered, but the BONUS is theirs to pocket.

They don’t get measured by their production…

They don’t get measured by their service…

They only get measured by the MISTAKES THEY AVOID!

Now, we figure if your local banker sees this, he’s going to blow a cork, and start reciting all the ad campaign jargon most banks are spouting these days.  But the truth is…

There Is Absolutely NO Incentive For A Traditional Banker To Serve Your Interests In Any Way

What you want to do is find a mortgage lender who is MOTIVATED to take your loan. One who represents many different products, and can offer you many options for making your loan most affordable.

Here’s an important tip: Ask your Buyer’s Agent to refer one or two lenders to you. Why? Realtors have power over lenders, because they send them lots of clients.  It’s not just YOU alone talking to them, with one loan.  It’s their future business looking them square in the face, too. And we send them hundreds of loans a year!

If they don’t give you first class service, the Buyer’s Agent who referred you will send (ALL) of their clients to someone else.  So they’re motivated to SERVE YOU.  And the minute you have a problem with your loan, you can turn to your Buyer’s Agent…who has much more influence and leverage over the lender than you alone.

After all, your Buyer’s Agent and lender both want to see the transaction close.  There’s power in numbers and influence.  Use it to your advantage.

Now, the second thing you want to do is GET PRE-QUALIFIED with a lender.  Better yet, try to get PRE-APPROVED.

Why?

Because the first question any home seller will ask when an offer is presented is “Is your buyer approved for a mortgage?

And rightfully so!  The seller doesn’t want the deal to fall through because you couldn’t get financing.  When the seller accepts your offer, their home comes OFF the active market. If you fall through, it costs them time and money. Most Builder’s average interest payments on completed homes is $ 1300.00  PER HOME, PER MONTH. No kidding. And, if it’s an Inventory home you’re looking at, it will help us to know how long it has been sitting since it was ready to close, so we can get you the best deal!

Plus, there’s one more reason to get pre-qualified or approved…

You Will Have Much More Power To Negotiate

Price And Terms When You’re Financially Qualified!

When you have money behind you, the seller knows you are serious.  And a serious buyer ALWAYS has more influence to negotiate.  So do yourself a favor, GET PRE-QUALIFIED or, better yet, PRE-APPROVED!

Secret #8:  Use A BUYERS Agent!

There’s a huge difference between a Buyer’s Agent and other agents. First and foremost, if you don’t have a specific agreement to be represented by your agent…

Chances Are, YOUR Agent Represents The SELLER!

Yes, it’s true.  And the question you have to ask yourself is… “Is this person going to represent MY interests?”  And ALL Builder Representatives are SELLER’S AGENTS.

Think about this: If you had to go to court, would you use the same attorney the opposing side was using?  When building a home, who does the Builder Sales Rep. answer to? To you, or to their Boss?

I think you know the answer!  But did you know that by creating a “buyers representation” with your agent, you not only get someone representing you, but…

  • A Buyer’s representative doesn’t cost you a nickel more than any other agent.  Even though they legally and plainly represent you, they’re still paid out of the standard commission…by the Seller!
  • Buyer representation is easy to enter into, and will support ONLY your interests.  This includes finding your home, helping with financing, and negotiating the best possible deal for YOU…
  • A Buyer’s representative will keep everything about you and your deal CONFIDENTIAL!

OK, so you know the difference between any agent and a “Buyer’s Agent.”  But did you know what a really good Buyer’s Agent can do for you?

  • A good Buyer’s Agent knows the area you want to buy in because he/she is out constantly looking at homes and knows what’s available on the market…
  • A good Buyer’s Agent can spot trouble for you.  He or she will be experienced at looking at homes and will see things you might not see.
  • A good Buyer’s Agent will greatly simplify the buying process…
  • A good Buyer’s Agent will give you MOTIVATED, reliable financing sources and options…
  • A good Buyer’s Agent will refer you to proven inspectors, attorneys, title and escrow officers, lenders who specialize in different types of credit situations, and other service providers you’ll need.

Most importantly, you need to know that…

There Are “Real Estate Agents”…

And Then There Are Committed Buyer agent Professionals. Which One Do YOU Want Representing Your Interests?

We hope the information above has given you helpful advice for helping you find, buy and finance your next home.

At this point, you’re probably pretty clear that, in order to find the right home and save money, you need someone competent and professional to represent only YOUR interests.

We started this company because we came to realize that the majority of Home Buyer’s needs were not being met, while the “Seller” held all of the cards. Home Buyers had no one to turn to for advice and help, or to voice their valid concerns. In fact, that is why we wrote this special report, and structured our practice around giving Home Buyers the competitive edge- along with the most competent service possible.

We help clients like you every day. We have cell phones, voice-mail and digital pagers, 4 phone lines, an E-mail address, a web page, and a toll-free number. You can always get through to us if you have a question or need assistance. And if we’re busy with another client, there’s a million ways to leave us a message- and we will get back to you as soon as possible. We’re a small, tight-knit, highly dedicated office. You will never be “just a number” to us, and you’ll never feel ignored. We want you to be experts, too! Our business is built by referrals of satisfied customers, ONE client at a time.

There’s a difference between agents who simply sell real estate, and those who COMMIT to doing whatever it takes to serve a clients beyond their expectations. We’ve been in real estate working on behalf of buyers and sellers for a long time. But more importantly, we have the knowledge and experience to make the whole process work like a finely-tuned machine.

We make it a priority to educate you on every aspect of buying the best home for your hard-earned money in your preferred area.  We have a long list of satisfied past clients and professional references whom you may call at any time to discuss the quality of our service and our follow-up.

We guarantee everything we do for you in writing.  This places the burden of risk and performance on US, not you.  We also have references to reputable people in mortgage lending, appraisals, title and escrow companies, tax specialists, attorneys, and even decorators.  These are people we have used in other transactions, and we trust them to take care of our clients like gold.

Each day, we speak with hundreds of people directly related to buying or selling real estate.  And we receive over 80% of our new clients through referrals and repeat business.  We want our personal marketing to involve such outstanding and exemplary service to our existing clients and personal network, that they are inclined to share our services with family and friends.

We’re Not Saying These Things To “Toot Our Own Horn”, But Impress Upon You The Difference Between Just A “Real Estate Agent” And A Competent, Dedicated Professional

Buying and selling real estate can be tricky business.  And making the wrong choices can cost you a lot of money, headaches, and wasted time.  Believe it or not, when we worked for Builders, we On-Site Reps used to call most Agents “Lazy Agents”! If you’ve ever had a bad or lazy Agent, you’ll know exactly what we mean. They bring in their client, and then disappear until they receive their check at the closing table. That’s why we designed a specific program designed for buyers like you.  We call it our…

Exclusive “Preferred Buyer Program”

Our Preferred Buyers Program is absolutely FREE to you.  Here’s what you’ll get when you enroll…

  • A Free Subscription to our “Home Locator” program. We’ll create a custom search model based on your personal home needs. Then, we’ll enter you into our Home Search system where our computers will sift through the market each night to find hidden bargains and new listings before anyone else gets them. Each day, we’ll search the homes on the market that meet your personal desires. We’ll also:
  • Evaluate the value of your chosen home so you buy the most home for your dollar…the very same way we described earlier…
  • Negotiate the best possible deal for you so you avoid costly traps and pitfalls…
  • Help you locate the most affordable financing in the market and for your situation…
  • Coordinate all inspections, appraisals, escrow and title services, with the very best firms, so you can feel confident and focus on other important tasks during your move…
  • We will attend all structural and mechanical inspections and walkthroughs with you, because we know what to look for and know what is acceptable and unacceptable.
  • Because of our experience, we’ll make the entire process as HASSLE FREE as possible for you.
  • Everything you do with our Firm stays COMPLETELY CONFIDENTIAL. No one will be discussing your personal or confidential affairs.

 

  • FREE BONUS: FREE CREDIT REPORT – a $50 value. If you call before the expiration date on the enclosed coupon, you’ll get a Free Initial Confidential Credit Report. Get the most home for your dollar, become updated on your credit status, and obtain the best financing for your next home…But Don’t Wait!            When you call, we’ll give you our undivided attention. And we’ll schedule a time to meet when it’s most convenient for you.            On the last page, we’ve included a special “Buyer’s Coupon”, to help you get started. It gives you a FREE “Initial Credit Report”, paid for by our company.            You’ll notice there’s an expiration date on the coupon. We know there’s a natural tendency to procrastinate. To put off important decisions. But the more you procrastinate, the more pressure ultimately rests with you.
  • By Not Acting Now, You Could Literally Cost Yourselves Thousands of Dollars!

 

Call us now, Toll-Free, at (877) 372-2252, or on our local line: (704) 372-2252, or call our Broker In Charge, Kristen Haynes, on her direct line: 704-905-4062- and we’ll immediately arrange a convenient time to meet with you to discuss your particular needs and to help you get started on our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program. It’s FREE, and we absolutely guarantee your satisfaction!

Sincerely yours,

New Home Buyers Brokers, Inc. / Realty Pros

P.S.  Once you have read this report completely, make a list of areas you would like to discuss, and call us at 704-372-2252 and speak to one of our Buyer’s Agents to enroll in our Exclusive Preferred Buyer Program.  We’re confident that we’ll help you find the right home, at the right price, and save you thousands in the process. So call now! We can help you find the right home for your needs in North and South Carolina, or can refer you to an excellent Broker / Realtor in your area.

Direct: 704-905-4062  or Toll Free: 1-877-372-2252

 

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Lack of Home Inventory Is Making It Hard For Buyers To Find Homes

 

For Sale sign- web

Date: May 20, 2014 | Category: Market Trends | Author: Camille Salama

After rising at the end of 2013, for-sale inventory has fallen for four straight months to begin 2014. Inventory remains tight nationwide, with the number of homes listed for sale on Zillow down 0.4 percent annually in April and more than half of metros in the U.S. currently seeing a similar downward trend.

In many metros, inventory is tightest in the lower-end of the market, which represents the homes most commonly sought by first-time home buyers. According to Zillow Chief Economist Dr. Stan Humphries this shortage of inventory is driven by a couple of factors, most notably by stubbornly high negative equity, particularly at the lower end of the market, which is preventing many sellers from listing their homes.

National home values in April were also down 0.1 percent from March to a Zillow Home Value Index of $170,200, marking the first monthly decline in more than two years. Among the 35 largest metros covered by Zillow, home values in a dozen were down on a monthly basis and were flat in two more. Year-over-year, U.S. home values rose 5.3 percent in April. The Zillow Home Value Forecast calls for another 2.2 percent increase in national home values by April 2015, further confirming that the market is slowing down.

For a deeper analysis from Humphries, visit Zillow Research at: http://www.zillow.com/research

Blog_2014_AprilData_a_04For more information on how this is affecting our local North and South Carolina market and for a free, local market report for your neighborhood and area of town, contact Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, Realtor NC / SC:

Direct: 704-905-4062 or Toll-Free: 1-877-372-2252

Email: khaynes@NewHomesNC-SC.com
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Lender’s Credit Score Requirements May Be More Strict Than Necessary

Lenders’ Credit Score Requirements May Be More Strict Than Necessary

FICO scores run from 300 to 850. Wells Fargo recently lowered in minimum acceptable scores for conventional loans to 620 from 660. Could this signal the start of some fresh thinking on credit scores? As Realtors, we certainly hope this is the case. As much as stricter credit scoring models were needed after the banking crash in late 2007, credit has been unreasonably tightened to the point that “good borrowers” were still unable to get loans. This includes First Time Home Buyers, the Self-Employed, and Move-Up Buyers who had to switch jobs or careers due to downsizing during the recession.

Are lenders’ credit score requirements for home buyers this spring too high — out of sync with the actual risks of default presented by today’s borrowers? The experts say yes. We agree.

What experts are we talking about here? The actual developers of the credit scores used by virtually all mortgage lenders. Executives at both FICO, creator of the dominant credit score used in the mortgage industry, and up-and-coming competitor VantageScore Solutions, confirmed that mortgage lenders could reduce today’s historically high score requirements without raising their risks of loss. In the process, many prospective buyers who currently can’t qualify might get a shot at a loan approval. This will be a good thing for buyers and sellers alike, and will help keep the housing market going in the right direction.

Consider this: Consumer behavior in handling credit is subject to change over time, often keyed to regional or national economic conditions. Credit scores that were acceptable risks in the early 2000s — say FICOs in the 640-to-680 range — turned into larger-than-anticipated losers when the recession hit. Now that the housing rebound is well underway and federal regulators have imposed tighter standards on income verification and debt ratios, the high credit score “cutoffs” that virtually all mortgage lenders imposed in the scary aftermath of the crash are stricter than necessary.

FICO scores run from 300 to 850. Lower-risk borrowers have high scores, and higher-risk consumers have low scores. Early in the last decade, a FICO score of 700 was good enough for an applicant to get a lender’s best deals or close to it. Today a 700 FICO just barely makes the grade — 50-plus points below the average score for home purchase loans at Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, the big investors. Banks now need to package and sell their loans on the secondary market, and if a homeowner defaults on the loan and the Underwriter review team finds something potentially amiss, the bank or lender now has to “buy back” the bad loan. Not something lenders want to do in the aftermath of such past, big bank failures due mainly to bad loans.

  

Joanne Gaskins, senior director of scores and analytics for FICO, said that statistical studies by her company have demonstrated that “the risk of default on more recent mortgage vintages is better than at the onset of recession” — essentially real risk has reverted to the early 2000s. A lot more people pay on time. As a result, she said, lenders can afford to “take a look” at their current strict scoring requirements and consider lowering them without sacrificing safety.

To illustrate how consumer behavior has improved, Gaskins cited one internal study that examined mortgage default data through 2011. At a FICO score level of 700 in 2005, roughly 36 borrowers paid their loans on time for every one who went into serious default. In 2011, by contrast, for every one defaulting mortgage borrower, roughly 91 paid on time. That’s a huge decrease in risk to the lender.

VantageScore Solutions has documented a similarly dramatic improvement in mortgage borrower payment behavior. In an article scheduled for publication this week in Mortgage Banking, a trade journal, Barrett Burns, president and chief executive of VantageScore, offers an analysis based on scores of 680 and 620 from 2003 through 2012. VantageScore’s latest scoring model uses a high risk to low risk scale of 300 to 850.

According to Burns, the probability of default at both score levels was lowest in 2003-05, then soared between 2006 and 2008 as the economy began deteriorating. By 2012, both scores were just slightly higher than 2005’s.

Burns notes that although auto lenders and credit card banks have adjusted their underwriting standards to these important changes in borrower risk, “the mortgage industry has been hesitant.” In an interview, Burns emphasized that mortgage lenders could expand home purchase possibilities for large numbers of consumers simply by lowering score cutoffs. They wouldn’t have to loosen up on their standards on down payments or debt ratios — just their scores.

A study last year by the Urban Institute and Moody’s Analytics estimated that every 10-point reduction in mandatory credit scores on mortgages increases the pool of potential borrowers 2.5%. A 50-point cut in score requirements, researchers found, would increase potential home purchases 12.5% — more than 12.5 million households.

At least one major bank has concluded that lowering scores is the way to go. Wells Fargo , www.wellsfargo.com, recently announced reductions in minimum acceptable scores for conventional loans to 620 from 660. They are joining other major banks in lowering the acceptable score threshold for FHA loans to 600. See the article here from Bloomberg News.

Could this signal the start of some fresh thinking on credit scores, a trend that other large lenders will pick up on? Let’s see. If they do so, it should be a win-win for everybody involved.

Copyright  2014 New Home Buyers Brokers, Inc. / Realty Pros. With excerpts from: Kenneth R. Harney, Washington Post Writers Group

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Charlotte, NC Just Ranked # 1 City For High Pay, Low Expenses!

Stretching Your Money: The Best Cities For High Pay And Low Expenses
By Jane Wells

March 20, 2014 3:51 PM
Top/CNBC | Yahoo Finance.

It’s great to get a good-paying job. It’s even better when you live in a city where that good-paying job buys more. After all, $60,000 goes a lot further in Boise, Idaho, than Boston.

Wallethub has looked at average incomes across the country.

The most compelling information—for us at Top/Best/Most—is the list of cities with the highest annual incomes when adjusted for cost of living. One hint: they’re all in the middle of the country, and none gives you an ocean view, though one comes close.

No. 5: Colorado Springs, Colo.

The home of the Air Force Academy is also a hub for defense-related firms, and there are more than a few ice skaters here beneath Pikes Peak aspiring to become Olympians. The average annual income is $69,844 based on the 2012 census numbers, and the cost of living index is 92.8. (The lower an index score is below 100, the better.) When adjusted for that cheaper-than-average cost of living, it’s actually like making $75,263, according to WalletHub. But while all those Air Force types may be flying high in Colorado Springs, not everyone else is. Unlike Denver, here in Colorado’s second-largest city, the sale of recreational pot is banned despite a new state law legalizing marijuana.

No. 4: Houston

Here’s the one city in the top five where you will get an occasional ocean breeze … or just a lot of humidity. Houston makes the list because America’s in the middle of an energy boom. Oil, natural gas, wind, you name it, the boom is powering up average incomes to $69,421, with a cost of living index number of 92.2. Adjusted for cost of living, that’s like making $75,303 per year. Even though Houston incomes are slightly lower than the average in Colorado Springs, there are no state income taxes in Texas, helping Houstonians take home more cash.

No. 3: Austin, Texas

See above for an explanation of tax breaks stretching dollars in Texas. Austin makes the list because incomes are going higher as the state capital becomes a hub for tech and music and all things hipster-y. Austin is headquarters for Whole Foods, adding to the whole quinoa-eating, fedora-wearing, cage-free celebrating vibe. The city is also home to the nation’s largest urban bat population, and we all know how hip the whole vampire thing is. The cost of living index in Austin is 95.4, but the average income is $74,860, which can buy you a lot of organic gluten-free veggies. (I keep making fun of Austin because I’m jealous.)

No. 2: Atlanta

Hotlanta! This town is a peach of a place to live! Atlanta is headquarters to a wide range of successful empires like Coke, Home Depot, Delta Air Lines and Nene Leakes.

The cost of living index number is 95.5, the highest on the Wallet Hub list. But how affordable is housing? The average income in Atlanta is $78,505. The usual rule of thumb in determining home affordability is to multiply one’s annual income by 2.5. That would mean the average home price should be $196,000. Good news! It’s only $144,000, leaving Atlantans’ with more money to afford a high-end lifestyle worthy of a “Real Housewife.”

AND- TA-DA!!! INTRODUCING THE NUMBER 1 RANKED CITY: Charlotte, N.C.

Charlotte City view 2014

WHAT?? WHERE?? WHO??? And what do bananas have to do with it all? Charlotte is the best city in America for good salaries and low cost of living. Turns out this town is a banking powerhouse, the second-largest financial center in the country behind New York, and New York is NOT affordable… at all.

  

Charlotte, NC (www.charmeck.org/city/charlotte/Pages/default.aspx) is headquarters for institutions like Bank of America, and is a major center for Wells Fargo, but Chiquita International also calls the city home, because Charlotte is so … wait for it … a-peeling. Hahaha. And why not? The cost of living index number is 93.2, the average annual income is $76,914 (which might feel more like $82,526 based on cost of living), unemployment is 6.6 percent and the so-called Queen City has even designated a local Dairy Queen a historic site. How cool is that? Source: WalletHub – www.wallethub.com

So- if you want to live large, and live it less expensively- check out the cities, above!

For more information on the lifestyle in Charlotte, NC or Charleston, SC (or other areas- we have a wealth of information on each city that we can share with you!)- Contact: Kristen Haynes, Realtor / Broker, GC, Certified Military Residential Specialist:

Direct: 704-905-4062 or Toll Free: 1-877-372-2252 or: khaynes@NewHomesNC-SC.com

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Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, GC, Certified Military Residential Specialist, Realtor / Broker NC / SC

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NEW FICO ‘SCORE NINE’ CREDIT SCORING SYSTEM ANNOUNCED, AND AN FHA LOAN MARKET UPDATE

For Sale sign- web

 

NEW FICO SCORING SYSTEM ANNOUNCED AND FHA LOAN MARKET UPDATE

March 18, 2014

Breaking News. FICO has announced that it will release the next broadly available version of the FICO Scoring System beginning this summer.

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INTRODUCING FICO ‘SCORE NINE”: Using a new, multi-faceted modeling approach, which combines sophisticated in-house analytic technology with insights gained over 50 years of building credit risk models, FICO ‘Score Nine’ will provide the best-in-class predictive power across all of the major credit product lines—home loans, auto loans, credit cards and personal loans—from loan originations, all of the way through managing and servicing the loan. FICO has also addressed lenders’ concerns regarding score consistency across the three major credit bureaus, and compatibility with previous FICO Score versions to ease adoption. The FICO Score continues to help keep lenders aligned with key compliance objectives and relevant government regulations. The FICO Score is the most widely used credit score in North America. Lenders purchased more than 10 billion FICO Scores in 2013, and 90 percent of all U.S. consumer lending decisions use the FICO Score.

WHO WILL UTILIZE THE NEW FICO SYSTEM?: The 25 largest credit card issuers, the 25 largest auto lenders and tens of thousands of other businesses rely on the FICO Score for consumer credit risk analysis and federal regulatory compliance. “To become a widely adopted industry standard, a credit score must work well across industries, across all lending product lines and across the entire credit lifecycle,” said James Wehmann, executive vice president of Scores at FICO. “The major changes in the lending environment over the last few years demanded that we take a different approach to building a score that will continue to perform consistently well in various situations. We devised an innovative approach to developing FICO Score Nine that enabled us to leapfrog our own industry-standard benchmark. Our goal is to continue to support a financial ecosystem that includes lenders, securitization investors, rating agencies, regulators and other stakeholders who need a common risk benchmark.” Source: NAMP Daily – www.nampdaily.com

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HOMEPATH AND HOME STEPS OFFER FREE CLOSING COSTS AND OTHER INCENTIVES: Government-sponsored enterprises (GSEs) Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac recently introduced new incentives to bolster home sales through their HomePath and HomeSteps programs, respectively, which are designed to help the firms liquidate the real-estate owned (REO) properties they hold in their portfolios.

Specifically, Fannie Mae is offering up to 3.5% in closing cost assistance on HomePath properties available in 27 states during the FirstLook period. During the FirstLook period, owner-occupant or public entity buyers are able to submit offers on HomePath properties, giving them the opportunity to purchase homes without competition from investors.

Fannie Mae recently announced the extension of the FirstLook period from 15 days to 20 days. To be eligible for the incentive, the initial offer must be submitted between now and March 31, 2014, so there’s not a lot of time left to utilize this program (unless it’s extended). Homes using this incentive must also close on or before May 31, 2014.

The incentive will offer qualified buyers up to 3.5% of the final sales price to pay closing costs. In addition, home buyers have a choice of $500 incentives they can use towards condominium association dues, flood insurance premiums or the home warranty of their choice. To qualify for these additional incentives, the closing must settle on or before May 30, 2014. The promotion does not apply to investor purchases, auction sales, sealed-bid sales and bulk sales, Freddie Mac reports. Source: MortgageOrb, www.mortgageorb.com For a list of available properties, call your local Realtor or go to: http://www.homepath.com.

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AN FHA UPDATE AND PREDICTIONS FOR THE UPCOMING YEAR: Following the first-ever Treasury draw required by the Federal Housing Administration this year, the agency says it is back on stable footing and does not anticipate requiring Treasury assistance in fiscal year 2015. As reflected in the Obama Administration’s proposed budget for the coming fiscal year, both FHA’s forward and reverse lending programs are expected to be cash flow positive with the Home Equity Conversion Mortgage program anticipated to have a negative subsidy rate at -0.23%. A positive credit subsidy indicates the program would require cash to cover losses.

In this case, however, the HECM program is expected to perform on its own, slightly above its break-even point. The earlier bailout to the tune of $1.7 billion was largely attributed to losses in FHA’s reverse portfolio. “The budget estimates the Mutual Mortgage Insurance Fund will have a positive capital reserve balance of $7.8 billion,” said FHA Commissioner Carol Galante of the entire fund outlook following the budget release. “We will not require a mandatory appropriation from the Treasury this year.”

Copy of 314 South Cedar front color

FHA touted its performance and positive outlook in the coming year, pointing to achievements such as reducing chronic homelessness by 16% and assisting 450,000 homeowners facing foreclosure through loss mitigation assistance in the midst of last year’s budget sequester. “This is more remarkable given the context in 2013,” Housing Secretary Shaun Donovan said. “Given the sequestration that cut across the entire federal government budget, HUD was faced with finding ways to cut 5% from our budget with very little time to prepare and just seven months left in the fiscal year. We made some extremely difficult choices. We’re proud of what we did to provide best possible outcomes.” Source: Reverse Mortgage Daily – www.reversemortgagedaily.com

Congress’s lack of progress on reforming the U.S. housing-finance system shouldn’t be “an excuse” to delay rebuilding the market for private-label mortgage securities, a senior U.S. Treasury Department official said recently. “Many investors have told us that they can and want to take mortgage credit risk,” said Michael Stegman, housing-finance counselor to the Treasury secretary, in prepared remarks at a research conference in New York. Adding simplicity and transparency is a key first step, he said. “To get back to an efficient, responsible, and sustainable level of complexity, and to rebuild trust, the new issue non-agency market must first follow a path of greater standardization and transparency,” Stegman said. Federally controlled buyers Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac have been in a conservatorship since 2008, an arrangement that has lingered with U.S. lawmakers disagreed over the appropriate role for government in housing finance. Source: Market Watch – www.marketwatch.com.

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EASIER QUALIFYING EXPECTED FOR FHA MORTGAGE BORROWERS: First-time and low-income borrowers may have an easier time qualifying for a Federal Housing Administration loan. Ginnie Mae, a government agency that issues bonds backed by FHA loans, reports that the average credit score on FHA-backed loans fell to 680 in 2013, and the average debt-to-income ratio rose to 40.3 percent — both indicators that credit may be easing. In comparison, Ginnie Mae reported in January 2013 that the average score was 701 and the debt-to-income ratio was 38 percent. “The FHA theoretically allows scores as low as 580,” the L.A. Times reports. “But lenders, buffeted by defaulted loans and demands that they buy back troubled loans that they sold, generally have set standards higher since the financial meltdown.” Source: The Los Angeles Times – http://www.latimes.com

A Note from Kristen: Actually FHA allows scores down to 500, but requires a down payment of 10% below 580. But many lenders do not want to underwrite loans under 640 (580 is the absolute minimum I have seen here in Charlotte, NC, and those loans also come with higher loan origination fees and interest rates). While many lenders have lowered minimum scores, FHA’s quality assurance initiatives ensure that lenders will still be underwriting their files under a microscope and looking at the loans carefully, because lenders now have to buy back their “bad” or defaulted loans if any errors are found in the original underwriting process. 

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Kristen Haynes, Broker In Charge, GC, CMRS  Web: www.NewHomesNC-SC.com

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BUYING A HOME IS NOW 38 % CHEAPER THAN RENTING

Buying A Home Is Now 38% Cheaper Than Renting

For Sale sign- web

Is renting or buying a better financial bet? Every six months, Trulia’s chief economist Jed Kolko runs the numbers to answer that question and help you stay on top of the trends.  So what does Trulia’s Winter 2014 Rent vs. Buy Report tell us? Although the gap between renting and buying is narrowing across the U.S., homeownership is still 38% cheaper than renting.

Homeownership remains cheaper than renting nationally and in all of the 100 largest metro areas according to Trulia TRLA -2.21%’s latest Winter Rent vs. Buy report. Rising mortgage rates and home prices have narrowed the gap over the past year, though rates have recently dropped and price gains are slowing. Now, at a 30-year fixed rate of 4.5%, buying is 38% cheaper than renting nationally, versus being 44% cheaper one year ago.

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Will renting become cheaper than buying soon? Some markets might tip in favor of renting this year as prices continue to rise faster than rents and if – as most economists expect – mortgage rates rise, due both to the strengthening economy and Fed tapering.

For each metro, the economists identified the mortgage rate “tipping point” at which renting becomes cheaper than buying, given current prices and rents. If rates rise, Honolulu would become the first metro to tip, at a mortgage rate of 5.0%. San Jose and San Francisco would also tip before rates reach 6%. But those are the extreme markets. Nationally, rates would have to rise to 10.6% for renting to be cheaper than buying – and rates haven’t been that high since 1989.

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The rent versus buy math is different in each local market. Buying ranges from being just 5% cheaper than renting in Honolulu to being 66% cheaper than renting in Detroit. But even for a specific market, like ours here in Charlotte, NC, the cost of buying versus renting is cheaper- especially with interest rates hovering around 4.50 %! In the Carolinas, we hover somewhere in the 20% range, (cheaper to buy than to rent), with urban cities like Charlotte, or Raleigh, NC leading the surge.

The bottom line: Buying Beats Renting Until Mortgage Rates Hit 10.6%

Even though prices increased in most markets over the past year, low mortgage rates have kept homeownership from becoming more expensive than renting. Also, in some markets, like San Francisco and Seattle, rents have risen sharply; rising rents hurt affordability relative to incomes, but rising rents make buying look cheaper in comparison.

Thanks, Trulia, for all of the good data. But, really, what does it mean to me personally?

Lydia & Paul, Centex

Here’s a Realtor’s take on all of this data:

Non-withstanding all the numbers, above, I am going to add some other wrinkles to the equation for you to think about when measuring the equation.

When you rent a home, you don’t get any of the benefits of home ownership- which would be mortgage deduction, which can be substantial, as well as the ability to write off the majority of your property taxes. Don’t kid yourself- if you are renting, you still pay these “fees”, but it’s in the form of rent (your landlord is covering those costs in the rental of the unit- and the landlord is the one who now benefits from the write offs,- not you)!

For argument’s sake- let’s assume that you are comparing renting a 1400 square foot, 3 bedroom, 2 ½ bath condo in Uptown Charlotte, that rents for the market rental rate of $1700.00- versus purchasing a 2300 square foot, 4 bedroom, 2 ½ bath home in the same area of Charlotte, NC, priced at $260,000.

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The home sales price that you and your Realtor negotiate for the home ends up being $250,000 (and in the Charlotte, NC and Charleston, SC markets, the seller may even kick in additional money towards closing costs and a warranty, on top of the money off of the sales price, depending on what else you are asking for in the offer. Closing costs in our area generally range somewhere between 2 to 3 % of the loan value- usually with a max contribution of no more than 6 % from the seller).

You can use the free mortgage calculator on our website and check the estimated payment on any loan amount by clicking on: http://www.newhomesnc-sc.com/mortgage/calculator. Keep in mind that this will not take into account any closing costs that you or the seller pay towards your loan, which will be on top of your down payment.

Okay, so you found a couple of great options. You looked at your finances, got pre-approved by a local lender, ran the mortgage calculator to get a comfort level for what you can realistically afford, and have decided that IF you buy a place, you are going to put down a 10 % down payment. You decided that if you decide buy versus rent, you will plan on getting a fixed rate, 30 year loan, currently at 4.50 %- this with no points (which is a fancy term for extra money paid to the lender to buy down the interest rate).

Here’s how the math works: Assuming you are in a 34 % tax bracket (this changes with your income level, so check with your accountant if you are not sure), here’s how it breaks down as a comparison:

For a home worth $250,000 with a 30 year, fixed rate loan of 4.50 % and a 10 % down payment, vs. renting a similar place for $1700 a month in rent:

Sales Price of Home:                              $250,000.00               *See Note, below

– Down payment of 10 %:                      -$25,000.00   

= Financed/ Mortgage Amount of:       $225,000.00   

If you are obtaining a mortgage, here’s your PITI (Principal, Interest, Taxes and insurance), or total housing payment, based on a $225,000.00 mortgage for 30 years @ 4.50 %, assuming you have a tax bracket of 34%:

Principal and interest:                              $1140.00

Taxes (City of Charlotte):                            $267.50

Homeowner’s Insurance:                             $28.00

Total Monthly House Payment:           $1687.50

  • Note: In the above example, the property taxes are based on the tax value or sales price of $250,000.00, The principal and interest are based on the lower, mortgage financed amount of $225,000.

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Now, here’s the fun part, and what most people miss when looking dollar for dollar at renting versus buying:

You can write off a BIG portion of your mortgage payment and taxes, so this is how it compares, financially speaking. Here’s how to figure it out:

STEP ONE: Take your Principal and Interest payment and multiply times your tax bracket- in this case, $1140.00 x 34 %. That figure is: $387.60.

STEP TWO: Subtract the $387.60 from the P & I of $1140.00, which equals $752.40

STEP THREE: Take your Property Taxes and multiply times 98 (since you can write off only 98 % of your taxes). That figure, using our example, above, is $262.15. That you write off and take off as a debt. That’s all of your property taxes, less a difference of – $5.35 per month. That leaves you with a write-off for taxes in the amount of $262.15.

STEP FOUR: Subtract the amount of taxes that you cannot write off from the total monthly tax bill, which is the $5.35, and add it to your revised monthly Principal and Interest. That means taking the $752.40 and adding $5.35, the portion that you cannot write off and have to pay for, (just like rent)- for a total of $757.75.

So, by breaking it down, you can see that your actual payment for the home is really more like $757.75, compared to what “seemed” like the cheaper option of renting a home for $1700.00!

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Renting a Home– Monthly Payment- Actual Cost:    $1700.00

Buying a Home– Monthly Payment- Actual Cost:       $757.75

Monthly Difference / Savings to buy your home, versus renting one: +  $942.25

This is NOT a “slash in the pan”, trick of hand game to convince you to buy a home. It is the ACTUAL SCENARIO, using REAL MATH, and the tax benefits that are available to all of us in the United States of America- and it’s a classic example of why many people BUY instead of RENT a home.

Of course, on TOP of all of this good news, most economists agree that since the housing crash first hit in late 2007, we have hit the “bottom of the barrel”, statistically speaking, of downward trends in housing prices in most markets, nationwide.

Home prices are starting to trend upward in a major way- which means that if you rent for another year or two, you may be paying 20 % (or more) for the same, exact home!

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Any accountant will tell you that anything that appreciates in value positively adds to your overall financial well-being, and therefore, contributes to your bottom line. A car is generally a depreciating asset, unless you are a collector. A house is historically an appreciable asset (depending on what you buy it for and what you sell it for- sometimes even taking a loss can helps you, tax wise). A good general rule of thumb is to buy your home if you feel that you are going to be in the home long enough for it to make sense for you to not rent (ie, two to seven years), so you can take advantage of the mortgage deductions, home appreciation and tax advantages when you sell.

Now, if you are not sure that you want to stay in your current job or city or don’t want the hassle of home ownership (paying out of pocket for repairs), then maybe buying a home is not for you.

However, keep in mind, that there are Home Warranty companies that can take care of a service call for $65.00 a trip. You will pay for a yearly policy (they run about $369.00 per year in our market), and you can use it for most repairs that come up, with that trip charge as your only additional cash outlay. For example, the water heater stops working or the dishwasher needs repair. When you rent, it is obviously your landlord’s responsibility to repair anything mechanical or structural that breaks down. But, remember, HE is the one pocketing the tax and mortgage interest deductions savings every month and every year, so he probably has wiggle room in there for repairs!

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And, true, in the above scenario, you have to come up with a down payment. If you qualify, though, are plenty of lower down payment options out there. You may qualify for a zero down or reduced, FHA down payment (currently 3.50 %). If you are a law enforcement professional, and EMT, a teacher or a nurse, you may qualify for a $100 Down, Good Neighbor Next Door loan. If you buy a foreclosure, HUD or Bank REO home that is distressed and it needs repairs, you may qualify for a Streamlined 203 K FHA loan (to buy the home with a 3.50% down payment, PLUS, get money for future repairs). And, with most FHA loan programs, the down payment can even be a gift from a relative. See the link at: http://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/HUD?src=/program_offices/housing/sfh/reo/goodn/gnndabot

No matter what type of financing you choose, if you buy the house in the above scenario for $250,000, and you sell it in five years for $300,000, you just made $50,000- or $10,000.00 a year. In today’s environment, making $10,000 per year on an initial investment of only $25,000 (the cash / out of pocket down payment in the scenario, above) is very difficult to do, even with a safe investment like a bank CD! You certainly won’t make that at the current market investment rate of 2 percent!

How about EVEN MORE good news? When you sell that house to move up to buy a bigger one, you get to WRITE OFF THE TAX / ie, PROFIT, without paying “Capital Gains taxes” on the transfer of the money (like you would if you sold shares of stock). That’s right- you can write off $250,000 (if filing separately), or $500,000 of the profit (if filing jointly / married)- ALL OF IT 100 % TAX FREE! You can do this, again and again- not just one time, like in the past! One caveat, though- you have to physically live in the home for 2 out of 5 years to use this tax advantage. It can’t be just a rental. Sure, you can rent it for three out of five years- but you have to actually live there for 2 years during that 5 year minimum time frame.

That’s a serious use of smart money that any one can take advantage of! See this article, brought to you by www.Bankrate.com, for an easy explanation of how to use the $250,000 / $500,000 exclusion: http://www.bankrate.com/finance/money-guides/home-sale-capital-gains-1.aspx

That’s it in a nutshell, folks! If you have any further questions or comments, feel free to comment or contact me to discuss how it applies to your specific situation.

Please note that we are not accountants or economists, and your situation may differ from the above scenario. But, generally, this is a good ‘rule of thumb” to use as a guide as to whether buying or renting is the best option for you.

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Have questions or want to see what is available for sale in the Charlotte, NC or Charleston, SC areas? Contact me for a list of properties in your area:

Direct: 704-905-4062 or Toll-Free: 1-877-372-2252

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Kristen Haynes, Realtor, BIC, GC, CMRS New Home Buyers Brokers / Realty Pros

Email: khaynes@newhomesnc-sc.com

Web: http://NewHomesNC-SC.com

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Broker In Charge, Unlimited Building General Contractor, Certified Military Residential Specialist
Boards: 2009-2014, Professional Standards Committee, Charlotte Regional Realtor Association
2008-2009, Independent Broker Owner Council, Charlotte Regional Realtor Association
Member: Charlotte Regional Multiple Listing Service, Charleston-Trident Multiple Listing Service, National Association of Realtors, National HUD Broker, Charlotte Regional Realtor Association, NC Licensing Board for General Contractors, BBB. EHO.

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